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🏰 Civitella d’Agliano: where the Middle Ages meet art among the hills of Tuscia

  • Writer: Giano di Vico
    Giano di Vico
  • Jun 1
  • 3 min read



Perched on a tuff hill overlooking the Tiber Valley, Civitella d’Agliano is one of those places where time has not stopped out of neglect, but out of reverence.Here, among stone alleys, ancient towers, and verdant views suspended on the border between Lazio and Umbria, the soul of the most authentic Tuscia remains intact—discreet, almost secret.

It’s a village that speaks with two voices: the age-old one of history, and the more recent one of contemporary art immersed in nature.

🏛️Origins: From the Etruscans to the Monaldeschi

The territory of Civitella was already inhabited in Etruscan and Roman times, but it was during the Middle Ages that the village took on the shape we see today. Around the 11th century, the Counts of Bagnoregio built the fortress, which later passed to the Monaldeschi della Cervara family, who ruled the area until it became part of the Papal States.

The following centuries were marked by sieges, factional wars, fires, and rebirths. Yet the heart of the village always endured, guarded within its medieval walls and tuff-stone houses, huddled together as if to shield themselves from time.

🧱The Village: Silence, Stone, and Wonder

Strolling through the historic center of Civitella is an experience to savor slowly, like all precious things. The alleys, radiating from the central square, seem designed for those who love understated beauty.

Must-see sights:

  • The Monaldeschi Fortress and its panoramic tower, offering views that stretch across the Tiber Valley all the way to Orvieto. Today, it often hosts cultural events.

  • Church of Saints Peter and Callistus, Romanesque, sober, intense. Here lies Saint Coronatus the Martyr, and the aisles are enriched with paintings by Naldini and Mazzanti.

  • Madonna delle Grazie, tucked away from tourist routes, welcomes visitors in a sacred and protective silence.

  • The medieval bastion, a towering remnant of ancient defenses, now a place of charm and contemplation.

🎨La Serpara: Where Nature Becomes Sculpture

Just steps from the village, La Serpara is a unique place on the Italian art scene: a garden of contemporary art immersed in nature, created by Swiss sculptor Paul Wiedmer.

Here, stone, iron, wood, and glass engage in dialogue with trees, streams, and wind. Over thirty installations that are not just to be seen—but to be entered, felt, lived. A park where spirituality meets creativity. Open by reservation, it’s ideal for those who love to be surprised.

🍷Ancient Flavors and Genuine Festivals

Civitella is also land of winemakers and olive groves, of fragrant bread and peasant dishes, of sincere festivals where the village comes together and opens itself up.

Mark your calendar:

  • “In the Lands of Grechetto” – July: walking tastings, music, and summer aromas

  • Beer & Pizza Festival – August: popular, cheerful, delicious

  • Wine & Music Festival – September: local wines, concerts, poetic vibes

  • Feast of San Gorgonio – September 9: religious celebrations and reenactments

  • Christmas Markets – December: crafts, sweets, and lights in a magical village setting

🚶Things to Do Nearby

The surrounding area is perfect for slow, scenic hikes:

  • Trekking toward Castel Sozio and the Lombard site

  • Walks to San Michele in Teverina and Castel di Piero

  • Visits to the calanchi and the most stunning natural overlooks of the Teverina region

🌟Why Visit Civitella d’Agliano

Because it doesn’t need special effects. It’s a village that opens up to those with eyes to truly see.

✔️ For lovers of authenticity✔️ For seekers of art and silence✔️ For those who wish to walk through history✔️ For anyone wanting to taste real farmer’s wine, not mass-produced bottles✔️ For those who crave quiet places full of beauty

“Civitella d’Agliano is like a poem etched in stone. It’s not read in haste: it’s heard with the heart, felt through the senses, and carried away with gratitude.”

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