Every now and then, Italy starts walking again.Not in line, but in silence. Not to arrive, but to find itself.The Via Francigena — that European thread stretching from Canterbury to Rome — beats once more in the heart of the Tuscia , where pilgrims become travellers and the journey itself becomes the destination. In recent years, the flow has grown by double digits: +20% in 2024 , with visitors from over 50 countries , and a striking fact — one pilgrim in five is under 25 .The path is no longer just a prayer; it’s a return to what matters.And those who reach Viterbo today find a city alive — one that has learned to slow down without stopping 📊 Numbers don’t lie In the second quarter of 2025 , Viterbo recorded a +17.16% increase in tourist arrivals and a +10.25% rise in overnight stays compared to 2024.A total of 52,721 visitors arrived, and the tourist tax revenue grew from €130,000 to €166,000 .A tangible, measurable growth — driven not only by those who walk the Francigena, but also by those who tell its story, maintain it, and open their doors along the way. In the towns of Acquapendente, Bolsena, Montefiascone, Vetralla, and Sutri , hospitality multiplies: small hostels, farm stays, and charming guesthouses.An ecosystem that breathes as one, sustained by a simple philosophy: walking is an economic, cultural, and deeply human act. 🌿 The reasons behind the renaissance Behind these numbers there are no miracles — only choices.The Ministry of Tourism has allocated €1.7 million to improve safety and enhance the route, while the City of Viterbo focuses on maintaining and making local sections more accessible.Meanwhile, a growing network of private operators believes in slow tourism as an investment in the future , not a passing trend. Walking here means crossing woods, thermal springs, stone, and silence .Each step carries a story, an accent, a warm meal.And at the end of the day, what truly matters is a place that welcomes a tired body and a light mind . 🏡 Nazareth Residence: Rest after the Road Those who reach Viterbo along the Via Francigena soon discover that not all stops are the same.The Nazareth Residence , just a few steps from the medieval quarter of San Pellegrino , is one of those places that stay with you.Not for luxury, but for balance: spacious rooms, green courtyards, quiet surroundings, a large adjoining church , and services designed for travellers on foot or in groups. Here you can sleep — but also breathe .Join moments of sharing, plan the next stage, or linger a few extra days — as many pilgrims do, eventually calling it their “passing home.” A place that perfectly embodies the spirit of the Francigena: hospitality, simplicity, and authenticity. 🔭 Paths that Shape the Future Forecasts for 2026 confirm the upward trend and point toward a shared goal: establishing a permanent observatory on Francigena tourism and pursuing its UNESCO World Heritage candidacy.But the true revolution has already begun.It lives in the steps that cross the Tuscia each day , in the stories that become itineraries , and in those who know how to welcome others with simplicity and a sense of time. ✍️ Viterbolandia Reflects The Francigena has never stopped speaking — it was we who finally started listening again.And perhaps Viterbo , with its ancient walls and its wise stillness, was the right place to do so.Because here, the journey doesn’t end: it transforms — into hospitality, into storytelling, into a shared breath. 📚 Main Sources TusciaUp · Quotidiano La Voce · Corriere di Siena · VieFrancigene.org · AEVF Stats · Comune di Viterbo · Ministero del Turismo · Trekking.it · Sloways · CNA Viterbo · Atti ASITA

The season of slow breathing There is a time of year when Tuscia seems to hold its breath. The hills soften their lines, the woods glow with copper light, and the air smells of earth, chestnuts, and rain.It is autumn , the season when foliage turns the landscape into a golden, wistful mosaic. Here, between Viterbo, Ronciglione, Caprarola, and Torre Alfina , nature performs like a Renaissance fresco : every leaf is a brushstroke, every ray of light a divine gesture. The Beech Forest of Monte Cimino: the golden heart of Europe Climbing up Monte Cimino , the world grows quiet, and all that remains is the sound of footsteps on fallen leaves.The ancient beech trees, solemn and towering, filter the light into a thousand shades of amber, gold, and carmine .Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site , this primeval forest is a temple of silence —a place one enters softly, almost reverently.The trail leading to the prehistoric acropolis feels like a journey through the memory of the Earth.Every turn opens a view that seems born from a Nordic dream, yet with the Mediterranean soul that only Tuscia can give.Sit for a moment—listen to the wind breathing through the trees. It is the same autumn voice that has spoken for centuries. Monte Fogliano and Lake Vico: where the water reflects time Below Monte Fogliano lies Lake Vico , a mirror that multiplies beauty.The beech woods lean toward the water, tinting its surface with flaming reds, golds, and soft greens . It is a place of deep, untouched peace, where one’s steps slow down and the heart softens.The trail to the Hermitage of Saint Jerome is a small spiritual adventure: climbing between volcanic rocks, moss, and twisted roots, you reach the stillness of a 16th-century hermitage carved into stone .Those who arrive find a silence that is not empty, but filled with memory . The wind tells tales of monks and travelers, echoing along the ancient Roman roads that cross the forest. The Forest of Sasseto: the enchanted garden of Count Cahen At Torre Alfina , on the border with Umbria, another world opens up.The Bosco del Sasseto feels outside of time: ancient, gnarled trees twist around moss-covered volcanic boulders , while morning mist drifts between their roots.It is a gothic fairytale landscape , suspended between life and dream.Along the path, you find remnants of forgotten history— ice houses, springs, water pumps —until you reach the neo-Gothic mausoleum of Count Edoardo Cahen , who wished to rest forever among the trees he loved.The Sasseto is not a forest to cross—it’s one to contemplate . It asks for silence, as if standing before a prayer. An itinerary of light and stillness Three places, three souls of the same land. Cimino teaches solemnity, Fogliano reflection, Sasseto wonder.Together, they tell the story of Tuscia in autumn —a land that cannot be captured by photos alone, but must be lived: breathing softly, touching bark, listening to the distant bells of its villages. Bring a notebook, a blanket, and a bottle of local wine . Stop where shadow meets light.And if you lose your way among the trails, let the forest be the one to find you. 📍 Recommended sites Beech Forest of Monte Cimino – Caprarola Beech Forest of Monte Fogliano – Ronciglione / Lake Vico Bosco del Sasseto – Torre Alfina, Acquapendente 📸 Best light for photos: around 4:30 PM , when the sun filters low and the leaves turn translucent like antique glass. ✍️ Text by Giano di Vico 🕯️ Viterbolandia – where Tuscia tells its own story.

Palazzo Chigi in Viterbo and Palazzo Chigi Albani in Soriano nel Cimino Tuscia is a land of noble palaces that tell centuries of family ties, political ambitions, and artistic refinement. Among the most fascinating stand Palazzo Chigi in Viterbo and Palazzo Chigi Albani in Soriano nel Cimino : two residences different in style, yet united by the same dynastic thread, that of the powerful Chigi family , which journeyed from Siena to the heart of Lazio, leaving behind a monumental legacy. 🏰 Palazzo Chigi in Viterbo 📍 Via Chigi 17 Caetani origins : built in the second half of the fifteenth century on the remains of medieval buildings by the Caetani family, alum merchants who dominated Viterbo’s economy. A Sienese Renaissance in Tuscia : the palace was sold to the Chigi in 1510. The arcaded courtyards recall the model of Palazzo Medici Riccardi in Florence, a symbol of Renaissance power and modernity. Precious frescoes : inside are works by Antonio del Massaro ( Madonna with Child ) and Antonio Tempesta, a renowned Mannerist linked to the Medici and the Chigi, author of the scenographic Hall of Aphrodite and Hall of Saint Paul . Curiosity : in the courtyard stands a Renaissance well with the Chigi coat of arms. Tradition has it that from here ran secret passages leading to Via San Lorenzo, useful for sudden escapes or private meetings. Present use : today part of the palace hosts the Muzio Clementi Musical Association , which brings the historic rooms to life with concerts and cultural events. Over time, ownership passed to the Egidi family. 🌊 Palazzo Chigi Albani in Soriano nel Cimino 📍 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele If Palazzo Chigi in Viterbo exudes urban Renaissance, that of Soriano nel Cimino is a triumph of nature and Baroque architecture . An ambitious project : commissioned by Cardinal Cristoforo Madruzzo in the mid-sixteenth century and entrusted to architect Ottaviano Schiratti from Perugia. Over the centuries, it was expanded by the Albani and finally inherited by the Chigi thanks to matrimonial clauses (1852). Papacqua Fountain 💧 : the monumental nymphaeum, carved into the rock, is a hymn to water, symbol of abundance and rebirth. Here arcades, mythological statues, and playful water features intertwine, astonishing guests during banquets and receptions. Anecdotes : the name Papacqua comes from the abundance of springs considered “miraculous,” said to cure illnesses and restore strength to pilgrims. Vanvitelli and the Baroque : in the eighteenth century, architect Luigi Vanvitelli enriched the complex with Baroque scenographic elements. Worldliness and sacredness : the palace hosted popes, sovereigns, and Roman nobility. In the Italian gardens, refined parties were held, complete with fountains that sprayed water unexpectedly to surprise and amuse. Esotericism and hidden symbols 🔮 : among the statues and underground chambers, Renaissance symbols related to water and spiritual rebirth are said to be concealed. Today, after significant restorations carried out by the Ministry of Culture, Palazzo Chigi Albani continues to enchant with its gardens and monumental architecture. 👑 The great families of Tuscia: Chigi, Albani, and Caetani The Chigi : Sienese bankers who rose to papal power with Alexander VII in the seventeenth century. In Viterbo and Soriano they left their architectural and symbolic mark. The Albani : of Albanian origin, the family intertwined with the papacy and Tuscia, inaugurating a season of artistic splendor. The Caetani : alum merchants who shaped the economy of Viterbo in the fifteenth century, leaving traces in various city palaces. ✨ Curiosities and legends In the gardens of Palazzo Chigi Albani, hidden water features surprised guests with sudden sprays. In the underground rooms, tales spoke of initiatory rites and esoteric symbols linked to water, the vital force of the Renaissance. In Viterbo, the well of Palazzo Chigi has remained for centuries at the center of popular tales of secret escapes and conspiracies . 🎶 Two palaces, one heritage Palazzo Chigi in Viterbo and Palazzo Chigi Albani in Soriano nel Cimino are not just splendid buildings: they are chapters of a single story , that of the great families who intertwined their destinies in Tuscia. Between noble coats of arms, Mannerist frescoes, Baroque nymphaea, and popular legends, these places continue to speak to us with the voice of the past, reminding us that every stone holds a memory to be heard.

For over twenty years, the Bistrot of Viterbo, located at Viale Trieste 96, has been a landmark in Tuscia’s dining scene. Balancing elegance and informality, this restaurant has distinguished itself with a cuisine centered on the freshest fish, enriched by refined incursions into French gastronomic tradition, becoming a true “institution” for lovers of fine dining. An Atmosphere Between Parisian Bistrot and Summer Garden The restaurant unfolds across two distinct spaces that reflect its spirit: an intimate and elegant indoor dining room, recalling the charm of French bistrots; a covered veranda enclosed by glass windows, ideal especially in spring and summer. During the warmer months, the outdoor pergola becomes the perfect setting for romantic dinners or evenings with friends, while the spacious private parking is a notable convenience for guests. The Cuisine: Art on the Plate At the heart of the Bistrot lies its cuisine, renowned for the quality and freshness of its fish. The dishes are born from recipes that are simple yet never ordinary, designed to enhance the flavors of the sea without overshadowing them. Among the most popular appetizers are: carpaccios and tartares of the freshest fish; stewed baby octopus ( moscardini in guazzetto ); red anchovies with toasted bread and butter, now a must of the house; the generous mixed seafood appetizer . The signature first courses stand out for balance and creativity: paccheri with monkfish and yellow cherry tomatoes, paccheri with baby cuttlefish and pistachio pesto, spaghetti with veracious clams, and gnocchi with scampi. For the second courses , options range from sesame-crusted tuna steak to the classic mixed grill, monkfish all’acqua pazza , or a masterfully prepared seafood fry. The French Specialties: A Rare Touch in Viterbo In addition to fish, the Bistrot surprises with internationally inspired proposals, first and foremost the escargots à la bourguignonne : snails cooked in the traditional way, with garlic and parsley butter, served in the classic dish with shells. A true delicacy for curious palates and connoisseurs, virtually impossible to find elsewhere in the city. Alongside this rarity, there are also foie gras, selected meat dishes, and refined reinterpretations of Viterbo’s local specialties. The Wine Cellar and the Welcome The wine list , broad and well-curated, offers a selection that embraces Viterbo labels, national wines, and international bottles, with particular attention to sparkling varieties. The staff, as many reviews emphasize, is friendly and knowledgeable, attentive in recommending pairings that complete the dining experience. Opening Hours Tuesday – Sunday : Lunch 11:00 AM – 3:00 PM | Dinner 7:30 PM – 10:30 PM Monday : Closed ☎️ Phone : +39 0761 344018 📍 Address : Viale Trieste, 96 – 01100 Viterbo Tips for Your Visit Book in advance, especially on weekends. Don’t miss the escargots — a true rarity in Viterbo. Ask for the catch of the day; there are often off-menu surprises. End with dessert: the tiramisù is highly appreciated by regulars. Why Choose the Bistrot After more than twenty years, the Bistrot remains a pillar of Viterbo’s dining scene . It combines the best of the sea with touches of French haute cuisine, offering a unique experience that goes beyond the standards of traditional taverns. It’s perfect for those looking for an elegant yet informal address, where food quality and customer care are always at the forefront. A restaurant that continues to prove itself as one of Viterbo’s unmissable gastronomic stops . Curated by Viterbolandia – The Tuscia Blog Last update: September 2025

Just a few steps from Viterbo’s medieval walls, amid sulfurous vapors and papal legends, lies a place that for centuries has united healing, spirituality, and wonder: the Terme dei Papi . Here, where water springs at 58°C from the heart of the earth, Etruscan memory, Roman grandeur, and papal power intertwine in a tale that still today draws travelers from all over the world. 📜 Ancient Origins: from the Etruscans to Dante The thermal springs were already known to the Etruscans , who considered them sacred, and to the Romans , who made them a center of wellness and architecture. The Bullicame , the most famous spring, not only healed bodies but inspired poets: even Dante Alighieri , in the 14th canto of the Inferno , mentions its boiling waters, comparing them to the infernal river Phlegethon. A sign that the Bullicame is not only a place of health, but also a universal symbol of regeneration and strength . 👑 The Pope’s Bath: luxury and spirituality The true turning point came in 1450 , when Pope Nicholas V had an elegant fortified palace built, with crenellated walls and vaulted halls, to treat himself with the waters of Viterbo. That place, known as the Bagno del Papa (The Pope’s Bath), soon became a refuge for popes and papal courts. After Nicholas, Pope Pius II also promoted its expansion, consolidating Viterbo’s fame as the thermal capital of Christianity. Today, the Bagno del Papa, with its evocative architecture, remains a living testimony of how health and spirituality could merge into a single space. 💧 The power of the Bullicame waters The hyperthermal waters of the Terme dei Papi are rich in sulfur, bicarbonate, and alkaline minerals , with benefits recognized by modern medicine: soothe rheumatism and arthritis treat skin and respiratory diseases have properties for gynecological and gastrointestinal wellness It is as if each drop contained a millennial dialogue between man and nature, faith and science . 🌿 From past to present After centuries of splendor, the baths went through alternating fortunes until the 19th century, when new facilities were built. In 1989 came the great rebirth: thanks to restoration and innovation, the Terme dei Papi returned to being one of the most prestigious thermal complexes in Italy . Today they welcome guests with: a monumental outdoor pool , unique of its kind wellness centers and spa paths integrated hotel and dining treatments recognized by specialist medicine ✨ Living them today: a timeless experience Visiting the Terme dei Papi is not just about immersing yourself in beneficial waters. It is walking through history , retracing the steps of Etruscans, emperors, and popes. It is being enveloped by steam rising from the earth, listening to the silence broken only by the gurgling of springs, regaining a balance between body and spirit. 🗝️ Viterbolandia’s Tip If you come to Viterbo, don’t stop at the medieval city : treat yourself to a few hours at the Terme dei Papi. Go at sunset: the monumental pool lit by the setting sun will make you understand why these waters belong not only to health, but also to beauty and memory. 👉 The Terme dei Papi are not simply a place of wellness. They are a historical and natural heritage , a privileged gateway to understand the deep union between Tuscia, water, and sacredness .

In the heart of Tuscia, on a hill overlooking the sea, lies one of the most mysterious and fascinating sites of the ancient Mediterranean: the Monterozzi Necropolis of Tarquinia .A vast underground labyrinth of more than 6,000 tombs , many of them frescoed, which since 2004 has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site 🌍. Here, among painted walls and chambers carved into tuff, survives the largest collection of Etruscan painting , the most extensive testimony of pre-Roman art in the Mediterranean. 📜 History and features 📏 Extent: 6 km of tuff hills just outside Tarquinia. ⚰️ Over 6,000 burials , most of them rock-cut chamber tombs once covered by tumuli now mostly vanished. 🎨 About 200 painted tombs , dating from the 7th to the 2nd century BC , the only such extensive corpus of pre-Roman painting in the Mediterranean. The tombs were true “underground palaces” , with monumental entrances and frescoed interiors narrating the life and beliefs of the Etruscans. 🎨 The painted tombs: life and afterlife The frescoes inside the tombs are not just funerary art: they are snapshots of Etruscan daily life . 🍷 Banquets and symposia : men and women reclining on dining couches. 💃 Dance and music : figures celebrating life with instruments and rhythmic movement. 🏹 Hunting and fishing : scenes showing skill and harmony with nature. 🏋️ Athletic games : competitions and sporting events. 👹 Demons and deities : figures of the underworld accompanying the deceased. Among the most famous tombs: 🦁 Tomb of the Lionesses 🐆 Tomb of the Leopards 🤹 Tomb of the Jugglers 🐟 Tomb of Hunting and Fishing ⚔️ Tomb of the Warrior 🗺️ Visiting Tarquinia An ideal itinerary includes three stops: Monterozzi Necropolis (just outside the historic center): guided tours to the painted tombs. National Etruscan Museum 🏛️, housed in the splendid Palazzo Vitelleschi . Tarquinia’s medieval old town 🏰: towers, walls, squares, and Romanesque churches such as Santa Maria in Castello . 👉 Local guides weave together stories of Etruscan funerary rites with the medieval legacy of the town, creating a unique experience. 🏰 Tarquinia today: a living town Walking through Tarquinia means crossing two thousand years of history .Don’t miss: ⛪ Church of Santa Maria in Castello 🏛️ Palazzo Vitelleschi 🗼 Tower of Matilda of Canossa ⛲ Piazza del Comune and its Baroque fountain A town that breathes stone, sea, and memory. ✨ Viterbolandia’s Tip The Monterozzi Necropolis is not just an archaeological site: it is a journey into the Etruscan soul .Take your time, linger before the frescoes, and let the colors — still vivid after 2,500 years — whisper the joy of life.

Hand-carved corridors in tuff, up to 25 meters deep and over a kilometer long, connect Pitigliano, Sovana, and Sorano , forming a network unique in the world. Walking them today means entering a natural and sacred labyrinth, where vertical walls covered in moss and ferns seem to guard the very breath of the earth. 🏺 Origins and Mysteries The function of the Vie Cave remains shrouded in doubt, as so often with Etruscan works: 🚶 Roads of communication : pathways linking urban centers and necropolises, shaded from the sun and easily defensible. ✨ Ritual routes : sacred walks toward Mother Earth, used for processions and rites of passage. 🌌 Symbolic channels : tunnels leading to the underworld, in continuity with the Etruscan cult of the Inferi. Some studies even suggest hydraulic or defensive purposes, but no explanation is definitive. Perhaps this is their strength: to remain an open enigma. 🌿 A Unique Ecosystem Walking through the Vie Cave means stepping into a special microclimate: Constant humidity, cool and filtered air. Rare vegetation: Scolopendrium Vulgare and Maidenhair Fern , species that grow only in very particular habitats. Walls that resemble natural cathedrals, adorned with carvings, medieval crosses, and apotropaic symbols left across the centuries. A landscape where nature, history, and spirituality breathe as one. 📍 Where to Find Them The Vie Cave can be visited mainly around Pitigliano, Sorano, and Sovana — three villages worth the journey on their own. Some of the most notable paths include: Via Cava di San Giuseppe (Pitigliano) : among the most evocative, descending into the heart of the cliff. Via Cava di San Rocco (Sorano) : overlooking breathtaking panoramas, alternating narrow corridors and sudden openings. Vie Cave of Sovana : a network linking the Etruscan necropolis with the medieval village. 👉 The network is freely accessible, but comfortable hiking shoes, a flashlight, and a good map are recommended. ⚔️ From Antiquity to the Middle Ages The Vie Cave did not cease to live with the end of the Etruscans: The Romans used them as secondary routes. In the Middle Ages, they became refuges and military passages. Local communities left crosses, symbols, and carvings, transforming them into places of popular devotion. Today, they remain layered testimonies of more than 2,500 years of history. ✨ A Sensory Experience To enter a Via Cava is to cross a threshold: Silence envelops you, broken only by the dripping of water. Light filters down from above in thin blades 🌞. The walls, covered in moss and roots, seem to breathe beside you. Every step is a return to a time when humanity lived in symbiosis with rock and with the sacred. 🗝️ Viterbolandia’s Tip 👉 Dedicate at least half a day to exploring the Vie Cave. 👉 Bring along a local guide: they will reveal symbols and hidden stories you might otherwise miss. 👉 Stop, in silence, at the center of a corridor: you will truly feel the force of Tuscia, uniting sky and earth.

Amid chestnut groves and the damp silences of Bomarzo’s woods lies a riddle of stone, as if drawn from an initiatory tale: the Etruscan Pyramid , also called the “Preacher’s Rock.” A rock altar about 16 meters high, carved from a single block of peperino stone, still challenging scholars, travelers, and dreamers today. A unique monument in Europe, hidden in the shadows until 1911, and now appearing like an apparition: a forgotten temple, where nature and mystery intertwine in an ancient embrace. 📜 An altar between myth and archaeology Climbing its 28–35 steps carved into the rock, you enter a suspended world: three platforms, side seats, channels that once carried liquids. Everything speaks of ancient rites, sacrifices, and offerings to the gods. For some, it was an Etruscan sacrificial altar, dedicated to the Underworld ⚡. For others, its roots stretch back even further, to the Rinaldonian culture of the 4th millennium BC, a people who watched the sky 🌌 and celebrated archaic cults. Whether it was a place of augurs 🔮, of blood shed, or of silent astronomical observations, its function remains veiled in mystery. And that, precisely, is its fascination: the certainty of not knowing, the thrill of imagining. 🏛️ The “wrong” architecture that enchants The pyramid has none of the geometric perfection of its Egyptian sisters. It is asymmetrical, almost “off-key,” yet within this imperfection lies its charm. It vaguely recalls the pre-Columbian pyramids 🗿, but it is also Italic, Hittite, and undeniably local. It seems to speak an unknown language, carved not to impress but to connect humankind with mystery ✨. 🚶‍♂️ A path among tombs and silence Reaching it is already part of the ritual. From the parking area at Bomarzo’s sports field 🅿️, a trail marked with red blazes leads into the woods. ⏱️ Walking time: 30–40 minutes 🥾 Recommended: hiking shoes, water, GPS orientation Along the way, among roots and stones, you encounter Etruscan tombs ⚰️ and traces of ancient settlements. Then, suddenly, the pyramid appears: a cathedral of tuff, hidden among the branches. 🙌 Its rebirth thanks to a guardian For years, the pyramid was swallowed by vegetation 🌿. Only in 2008, thanks to the dedication of Salvatore Fosci , a volunteer in love with his land, did it become visible again. With patience and tenacity, he cleared the stone of brambles and returned to the community an extraordinary heritage 🕊️. Today the pyramid is a living place, open to exploration, where anyone can climb its steps and question the past. 🌌 An experience that stays within you Visiting the Etruscan Pyramid of Bomarzo is not just about seeing a monument. It is about living an encounter: with history, with mystery, with nature 🌳. An altar that offers not answers, but questions ❓. That does not speak, but listens 👂. That does not reveal itself to just anyone, but only to those who dare to enter the forest and allow themselves to be surprised. ✨ Viterbolandia’s tip Bring hiking shoes, water, and curiosity. And above all, bring time: because in front of the pyramid you don’t look at your watch ⌛. You look inside yourself.

Sutri, the ancient gateway to Tuscia, hides among its countryside a jewel of rare charm: the Ancient Village of Sutri . Here, time seems to have slowed its pace, giving way to the elegance of stone, the silence of courtyards, and the beauty of landscapes surrounding this historic residence, now one of the most sought-after locations for exclusive events. 🏛️ Architecture and Spaces The Ancient Village was born from a careful restoration of the original structures, enhancing local stone, ancient woods, and historical details . Walking through its spaces, you encounter: stone-paved courtyards that evoke medieval atmospheres, frescoed interiors that tell centuries of history, a scenic park , perfect for outdoor receptions and relaxing moments immersed in nature. The modularity of the spaces allows for both intimate gatherings and large celebrations with hundreds of guests, always in a refined and welcoming setting. 🍷 Cuisine and Culinary Tradition Every event at the Ancient Village of Sutri is accompanied by a culinary offering that blends tradition and innovation . Typical products of Tuscia are reinterpreted with contemporary creativity. Tastings, banquets, brunches, and aperitifs can be customized, with the guarantee of selected suppliers and expert staff. Attention to detail transforms each gastronomic experience into a journey of discovery, combining conviviality and refinement. 🎉 Services and Versatility The strength of the village lies in its ability to adapt: charming weddings , with tailor-made solutions, private receptions, parties, and photo shoots , corporate conferences and cultural events , perfectly suited to its versatile spaces. Its location, nestled in the countryside yet easily accessible, together with its privacy and elegance, makes the Ancient Village an ideal choice for those seeking uncompromising quality. 🌟 Atmosphere and Reputation The Ancient Village of Sutri is much more than a venue: it is an experience . The welcoming atmosphere, architectural details, and breathtaking landscapes give every guest the feeling of living a moment suspended between history and nature. Not surprisingly, it is today one of the most sought-after destinations in Tuscia for those who wish to celebrate in an authentic and unforgettable setting. ✨ An Invitation to Discovery Choosing the Ancient Village of Sutri means embracing a setting that unites art, memory, and landscape . A historic residence that knows how to present itself with discretion and class, transforming every event into a memory that lasts over time.

Tra i colli verdi e silenziosi della Tuscia, a pochi passi da Viterbo, si erge Villa Muti Bussi , una dimora storica che da secoli custodisce l’anima aristocratica del territorio. Un luogo dove arte, natura e storia si intrecciano, offrendo ai visitatori e agli ospiti l’esperienza di un viaggio nel tempo, tra fasti seicenteschi e ospitalità raffinata. 🏛️ Architecture and Unique Spaces The villa, renovated in 1737 by architect Giuseppe Prada on a pre-existing building – originally a sixteenth-century hunting lodge of the Bussi family – is a masterpiece that combines elegance and function. The Garden Gallery , connected by a grand staircase, leads to the piano nobile , with sumptuous rooms such as the dining hall and the frescoed sitting room. A private chapel overlooking the park provides an intimate, evocative space for exclusive ceremonies and weddings. The interiors, enriched with Baroque frescoes and period furnishings, preserve the noble atmosphere of a prestigious residence. The park, spanning more than one hectare , includes a pine grove, an Italian-style garden, tree-lined avenues, and a panoramic bridge with enchanting views over the villa and surrounding countryside. 🎉 A Venue for Exclusive Events Today, Villa Muti Bussi is one of the most sought-after locations in Tuscia for: fairytale weddings , hosting up to 400 guests; private receptions , parties, and social events; film sets and photo shoots , thanks to its striking indoor and outdoor settings; conferences and corporate meetings , with customizable rooms and dedicated services. Its versatile spaces, both indoors and outdoors, together with meticulous organization, offer tailor-made experiences in an atmosphere of charm, privacy, and contemporary comfort. 👑 A Story of Families and Prestige The villa’s history is deeply rooted in the legacy of the Bussi family , one of Viterbo’s most influential families since the 13th century. Originally built as a hunting lodge, it was later expanded and enhanced until it became the residence of the Muti-Bussi marquises , central figures in Tuscia’s political and social life. After decades of decline following World War II, the villa was restored and returned to its former glory, once again standing as a symbol of aristocratic elegance and Italian hospitality . 🌟 Curiosities and Details The frescoes inside are attributed to renowned Baroque artists. The villa has hosted popes, nobles, and scholars , reinforcing its role as a cultural crossroads in Tuscia. Every room tells a story, offering guests the emotion of living within art, nature, and noble memory . ✨ A Jewel of Tuscia to Experience Villa Muti Bussi is more than a historic residence – it is a place that embodies the very spirit of Tuscia: refined, discreet, and full of authentic beauty. A timeless stage of elegance, where past and present merge to create unforgettable experiences.

Among the many stories that dwell within the Castle of San Michele in Teverina , there is one with a French scent, forever tied to the destiny of Napoleon Bonaparte . In the 19th century, the manor hosted Prince Charles-Tristan de Montholon , general, diplomat, and exile companion of the emperor on Saint Helena. With him came fragments of Europe, memories of battles, and the enduring echo of the Napoleonic legend. 📜 The Montholon Suite: a Chest of Memories Inside the castle, the Montholon Suite still preserves furniture and relics from the past. Tradition holds that the prince kept within those walls secret documents about Napoleon’s final days , forever shrouded in mystery. On windy nights, some say his presence can still be felt in the corridors, lost in thought and longing for France. ✨ Between Myth and Suggestion Montholon’s stay added a romantic and international aura to the castle. Local tales speak of letters never delivered , of deep nostalgia, and even of supposed nightly dialogues with Napoleon’s ghost . Thus, history and legend merge, making each visit an experience suspended between chronicle and imagination. 🌄 An Invitation to Discovery Visiting the Castle of San Michele in Teverina means stepping into a place where Tuscia meets Europe . The Montholon Suite is not just a room: it is a doorway to the past, a narrative bridge between historical memory and legendary charm.

Every castle has its heroes, but not all have heroines . The history of the Castle of San Michele in Teverina would not be what it is today without the courage and vision of two noblewomen: Caterina de’ Medici and Virginia Baglioni . To them we owe not only the rebirth of the fortress after its destruction in 1522, but also the feminine imprint that still lingers in the halls, loggias, and stones of the village. 📜 The time of rebirth After the siege of 1522 and the destruction ordered by papal troops and the Farnese-Monaldeschi, it was Caterina de’ Medici , wife of Piero I Baglioni, who saved the destiny of the castle. With determination, she obtained from Pope Clement VII the recognition of the land’s ownership and initiated its reconstruction . In 1536 the fortress returned permanently to the Baglioni family: among their descendants, Virginia Baglioni stood out as the protagonist of the architectural and cultural rebirth of the manor. While Count Alberto Baglioni promoted further works starting in 1569, it was Virginia who envisioned the splendid loggia-terrace , still standing today over the calanchi. Here, in a gesture of timeless pride, she engraved her name into the stone frame, leaving a mark that has become living memory and a symbol of resilience. 🌿 A presence carved in stone The panoramic terrace is today one of the most photographed spots for visitors to the castle. Not only for its breathtaking view over the valley of the calanchi, but also because it preserves the inscription of Virginia Baglioni : a rare gesture for the 16th century, when few women could “sign” a public work. Local guides recount this curiosity with pride, remembering how the strength and intelligence of Caterina and Virginia turned destruction into rebirth, shaping not only the architecture but also the soul of the village. ✨ Legends of a feminine presence In oral chronicles and tourist narratives, it is said that when walking through the frescoed halls and loggias of the castle, one can still sense a sort of protective feminine presence . Not a frightening ghost, but an aura of guidance and inspiration, as if the spirit of Caterina and Virginia still lingers among the ancient walls, watching over the destiny of the village and its people. 🌸 A story told by women The story of Caterina and Virginia is today remembered as one of the most identity-defining episodes of San Michele in Teverina. It is a tale of resilience and modernity : two women able to guide a community through hardship, to rebuild on ruins, and to leave their mark both on stone and on memory. Their legacy continues in the initiatives for the enhancement of the village , in guided tours and in the narratives that every year attract travelers in search of authenticity. 🌄 An invitation to discovery The Castle of San Michele in Teverina is not just a monument: it is a place of feminine memory , a meeting point between history, architecture, and identity. And on the terrace overlooking the calanchi, before the signature of Virginia Baglioni, every visitor can feel part of a dialogue spanning five centuries, where the stones do not only recount wars and sieges, but also rebirth, courage, and vision .

There is a wind that blows strongly through the Valley of the Calanchi , carrying with it voices from a distant past. If you pause in silence within the walls of the Castle of San Michele in Teverina , some swear you can still hear the clang of weapons, the shouted orders, the cries of battle that date back five centuries. This is the legend of the siege of 1522 , an episode that forever marked the soul of this Renaissance fortress. 📜 A Dynastic Dispute The spark was ignited by an inheritance dispute between two powerful families: the Baglioni , lords of the castle (then called Castel di Piero ), and the Farnese-Monaldeschi . In 1522, Galeazzo Farnese marched to the tufa cliff overlooking the Tiber Valley, bringing with him an army of soldiers and five hundred Corsican mercenaries. His intent was clear: to conquer the fortress and subdue the Baglioni, asserting Farnese power over Tuscia. 🛡️ The Resistance of the Baglioni Leading the defense was Piero I Baglioni , a valiant commander who rallied both townspeople and loyal soldiers. Chronicles recount a long and fierce resistance : the drawbridge raised, the walls repelling assault after assault, and the rugged terrain of the calanchi making the fortress nearly unassailable. But the fury of the attackers did not relent: after days of battle and heavy losses, the Farnese finally stormed the castle, ordering its destruction. The medieval stronghold collapsed under the violence, but from its ruins would rise again, rebuilt in Renaissance style, the castle we see today. 🌬️ Voices in the Stone: Folklore of the Siege The memory of the siege still lives on in local tales. Villagers recount that on windy nights , among the loggias and halls of San Michele in Teverina, distant echoes can be heard: the clash of steel, desperate shouts, and broken commands. It is as though the very stones had preserved the imprint of the defenders’ sacrifice, turning legend into eternal memory . 👩‍🦰 Rebirth and Female Protagonists After the fall, it was the women of the Baglioni family – particularly Caterina de Galeotto de’ Medici and Virginia Baglioni – who led the reconstruction. With courage and vision, they rebuilt the castle, transforming it into a Renaissance residence: elegant, yet still carrying the spirit of defense. 🍷 Between Visits and Stories Today, the castle welcomes visitors with its terraces overlooking the calanchi , the stables transformed into apartments, and the halls that preserve French memories linked to the Montholon-Semonville family , who were tied to Napoleon. Guided tours often bring the legend of the 1522 siege back to life: local guides and storytellers accompany visitors with curiosities, oral traditions, and artifacts unearthed from medieval wells, reviving the thrill of those dramatic days. ✨ An Invitation to Discovery Visiting the Castle of San Michele in Teverina means stepping into a story that blends history and imagination . Its walls speak of power and dynasties, of blood and rebirth, of courageous women and valiant commanders. And as the sun sets behind the calanchi, amid the silence and winds sweeping the valley, it truly feels as if you are returning to that night of 1522, when history became legend.

The Castle of San Michele in Teverina is not just a historic residence: it is a journey through time, a crossroads of power, art, and spirituality that still tells the story of Tuscia through its walls, its legends, and its illustrious figures. 📜 Origins and Noble Families ⛪ 1164 – Founded by Piero di Mugnano , originally known as Castel di Piero . 👑 For almost five centuries it was the residence of the Baglioni family , key players in dynastic disputes and epic battles. ⚔️ 1522 – The Farnese siege destroyed much of the medieval fortifications: the reconstruction became an opportunity for a Renaissance rebirth that still enchants today. 🌹 The female figures of Caterina de Galeotto de’ Medici and Virginia Baglioni led the castle’s rebirth. 🙏 Francesca Baglioni , who later became a nun, was educator and spiritual guide of Maria de’ Medici , future Queen of France. 📜 1690 – With papal license, the property passed to the Benedetti family of Spoleto . 🇫🇷 In the 19th century came the Montholon-Semonville family , linked to Napoleon Bonaparte : they brought a touch of French elegance to the residence. 🏛️ Architecture and Spaces 🏞️ The castle dominates a tufa cliff in the heart of the Calanchi Valley of Civita di Bagnoregio. 🎨 Renaissance halls still preserve frescoes, period furnishings, and panoramic terraces . 🛋️ The Montholon Suite holds French memories, with salons and a veranda offering exclusive views. 🐎 The historic stables have been converted into elegant modern apartments. 🏊‍♂️ An infinity pool and event spaces create a unique blend of history and hospitality. 🌟 Figures and Legends ⚔️ Piero I Baglioni and his courage during the siege of 1522. 👸 Caterina and Virginia Baglioni , symbols of resilience and rebirth. 🙏 Francesca Baglioni , the spiritual soul who tied the history of Tuscia to the French court. 🇫🇷 The Montholon family , keepers of the Napoleonic legacy, adding an international aura to the castle. 🍷 Tourism and Experience Today, the Castle of San Michele in Teverina is: 🎉 A location for exclusive events and fairytale weddings . 🛏️ A charming residence for stays immersed in history. 🍇 A place for tastings and celebrations , telling the story of Tuscia through its flavors. 🌄 A privileged viewpoint to admire the dramatic beauty of the Calanchi Valley . 🔍 Curiosities ✒️ The signature of Virginia Baglioni is still visible, carved into the stone of the terraces. ⛪ The village preserves the Church of San Michele Arcangelo and an ancient bridge , symbols of a living identity. ✨ The Castle of San Michele in Teverina is not just a place to visit: it is a living narration , an intertwining of noble memories, Renaissance art, and breathtaking landscapes that make Tuscia a truly unique land.

Introduction 🌄 A tuff nest between the Tuscia and Umbria. Sermugnano is a small hamlet of the municipality of Castiglione in Teverina, nestled on a tuff spur at an altitude of 346 m. Its tuff houses and well-kept alleys immediately show that here you can breathe authentic rural life. We are north of the Viterbo Teverina, almost on the border with Umbria and a few kilometres from Orvieto, immersed in a landscape that is still little touched by human hands, with woods, ravines and cultivated fields. From this spur the village overlooks vineyards that produce Grechetto and Orvieto DOC wines. Because of its wine vocation and the harmony of the landscape, Sermugnano has been nicknamed the “little Chianti of Lazio.” It is a perfect destination for those seeking a slow journey among enchanting countryside and the scent of tradition. History and Archaeology 📜 A millennial past. Archaeological studies indicate that the area has been inhabited since prehistory and that the hill called Poggio already hosted settlements before the Etruscans. The Etruscan and Roman necropolis discovered on the Poggio, which today cannot be visited because it lies on a dangerous escarpment, testifies to a continuity of life from prehistory to the Roman period. Among the burials stands out a pit tomb with two burials, discovered in 1965 and dated to the first half of the 6th century BC, whose richness of artefacts shows Sermugnano’s openness to Etrusco-Corinthian trade. On the south-eastern slope of the village there are chamber tombs carved into the tuff with gabled roofs, a type common in Etruria during the Orientalising period. A famous Etruscan mirror from Sermugnano, depicting a scene from the myth of Penthesilea, is now preserved in the British Museum. 🏰 The Lombard castle and the Monaldeschi seigneury. Tradition attributes the construction of the castle to the Lombard king Desiderius. The village was contested by several families, including the Monaldeschi of Orvieto, until their decline led to the loss of strategic importance. In the Renaissance the fortress was transformed into a noble palace, losing its military function. The defensive wall, still visible in some stretches, was erected to protect the settlement. Architecture and Landscape ⛪ Stone, faith and rural harmony. The historic centre is a maze of tuff houses arranged concentrically around Piazza Castello. Among the sacred buildings stands the Parish Church of San Silvestro , documented since 1494 but believed to be of early medieval origin. The church has a simple façade with a square bell tower and a single nave; inside it contains side chapels and was rebuilt in 1879 on the foundations of the old church. Other churches in the village are the Nativity of Mary , overlooking Piazza Castello, with a small sail bell tower and a wooden statue of the Virgin, and the church of Madonna delle Grazie , situated just outside the walls. 🌿 An agricultural landscape still intact. Sermugnano lies in a valuable agricultural area that forms part of the Teverina Wine Route , where vineyards coexist with woods, pastures and ravines. The area is criss-crossed by paths and scenic roads; in spring and autumn the colours of the vines and the mild climate make the visit particularly evocative. Legends, Curiosities and Traditions 🍇 The “little Chianti of Lazio.” Sermugnano is known for its Grechetto and Orvieto DOC wines and the quality of its grapes, thanks to its microclimate and volcanic soils. The surrounding countryside is characterised by mixed crops that give rise to oils, cured meats and other delicacies. In autumn the vineyards turn orange and ruby, and the village hosts food and wine events dedicated to local products. 🎭 Traditions and folk tales. The people of Sermugnano pass down legends linked to the castle and the Etruscan tombs, recounting Lombard warriors and ancient banquets. The village takes part in the “Luoghi del Cuore” walk of the FAI, ranking among the most voted rural villages. Tourism and Experiences 🎒 What to do in Sermugnano. Those who love archaeology can visit the MUVIS Museum in Castiglione in Teverina where the necropolis artefacts are kept. Trekking enthusiasts can follow trail CAI 192, which connects Sermugnano to Castiglione in Teverina and offers views over the Valle dei Calanchi. Wine lovers will find wineries and farms along the Teverina Wine Route; many offer tastings of Grechetto and Orvieto, vineyard tours and pairings with local products. October is the ideal time for tastings and to participate in festivals dedicated to grapes. The village has only one guest house; for restaurants and other accommodation one must go to Castiglione in Teverina, Orvieto or Civita di Bagnoregio. Sermugnano is 36 km from Viterbo, 18.5 km from Orvieto and 19 km from Bolsena. Main References 📌 Buildings and sites not to be missed: 🏰 Medieval castle – the heart of the settlement, of Lombard origin and later a noble residence. 🛡️ Defensive wall – fortification built to protect the village. ⛪ Church of San Silvestro – parish church with a single nave and square bell tower. 🕍 Churches of the Nativity of Mary and Madonna delle Grazie – two rural churches with simple façades and bell gables. 🗿 Necropolis of Poggio/Puntale – Etruscan and Roman tombs with rich grave goods; the British Museum keeps a mirror from here. 🍇 Teverina Wine Route – an eno-gastronomic itinerary that enhances Sermugnano’s landscape and vineyards. Conclusions 📣 Message for travellers. Sermugnano is an open-air laboratory where history, nature and wine culture come together. Don’t expect nightlife or mass tourist attractions: here life is lived slowly, one listens to the wind among the vines and loses oneself among tuff alleyways. Those who choose Sermugnano choose an authentic experience, amid Etruscan archaeology, poetic landscapes and glasses of wine that tell centuries of history.