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🏰 Graffignano: The Medieval Village in the Tuscia Teverina

  • Writer: Giano di Vico
    Giano di Vico
  • Aug 31
  • 3 min read

Graffignano è un suggestivo comune italiano di circa 2.070 abitanti situato nella provincia di Viterbo, nel Lazio, che si erge a 187 metri di altitudine nella zona della Tuscia Teverina. Questo borgo medievale, al confine tra Lazio e Umbria, domina dall’alto la Valle del Tevere, regalando paesaggi di rara bellezza.



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📜 History and Origins




⛏️ Ancient Roots



  • Etruscan-Roman origins documented by archaeological finds.

  • Etymology of the name:


    • Carfinianum → property of a Roman dominus (Carfinius).

    • Grappignanum → from the Lombard “grapa” (bunch of grapes) or “grapfo” (hook, medieval weapon).





⚔️ The Middle Ages and the Baglioni Family



  • 13th century: the Baglioni of Castel di Piero ruled over the Rocca of Graffignano.

  • 1282: Pandolfo degli Anguillara conquered the castle from the Orvietans.

  • 15th–16th centuries: family disputes resolved by Pope Adrian VI with confiscation (1522) and restitution by Clement VII (1531).




👑 From the Renaissance to the Modern Era



  • 17th century: the fief passed to Domitilla Cesi Baglioni, devoted to St. Philip Neri.

  • 1741: the fief was elevated to a principality, sold to Prince Scipione Publicola of Santa Croce → period of prosperity.





🌍 Geography and Territory




📌 Strategic Position



  • Extension: plateau between 60 and 400 m a.s.l.

  • Original village built on a tuff spur with medieval incastellamento layout.




🏡 Hamlets and Localities



  • Sipicciano (1,090 inhabitants).

  • Small hamlets: Pisciarello, Litigata, Poggio del Castagno, San Nicola.

  • Landscapes: woods, vineyards, olive groves, farmland.





🏰 The Baglioni-Santacroce Castle



  • Built in the 13th century, rebuilt in the 14th by Simonetto Baglioni.

  • Architecture:


    • Cylindrical tower (20 m).

    • Smaller circular tower (16th–17th century).

    • Overhanging battlements.

    • Bridge over moat.


  • Municipal property since 2000, now visitable for free (Thu–Sun), with guided tours and views of the Tiber Valley.





⛪ Religious Monuments




🙏 Church of San Martino Vescovo



  • 15th century, rebuilt in 1930.

  • Two-level façade with triangular pediment.

  • Single nave interior with biblical frescoes.

  • Copy of Guido Reni’s painting of St. Philip Neri.




🌹 Sanctuary of the Madonna del Castellonchio



  • 1.5 km from the village.

  • Built on the ruins of an ancient castle.

  • Linked to miraculous apparitions of the Madonna.

  • Miraculous spring: “Water of the Madonna” flowing into two ancient holy-water stoups.





🏘️ Sipicciano: The Historic Hamlet



  • First mentioned in 840 as Fundo Sepiciano.

  • Autonomous until 1872, incorporated into Graffignano in 1928.




🏛️ Architectural Heritage



  • Baronial Palace (15th century).

  • Former Church of Santa Maria Assunta with frescoed Baglioni Chapel.

  • Villa Lais (18th century) with Church of San Vincenzo.





🎉 Traditions and Folklore




🐌 Snail Festival (Sagra della Lumaca)



  • From August 12–17 (28th edition in 2025).

  • Snails cooked in traditional recipes.

  • Menu with grilled meats, lombrichelli pasta, and local desserts.




✨ “By the Light of the Snail” (A Lume di Lumaca)



  • August 16: the village glows with over 10,000 flames.

  • 2,500 glass jars lit up decorate the castle and streets.





🍝 Gastronomy and Typical Products




🍜 Lombrichelli Pasta



  • Typical fresh pasta, without eggs.

  • Dressings:


    • Garlic-tomato sauce.

    • Sausage ragù.

    • Guanciale.





🫒 Tuscia PDO Extra Virgin Olive Oil



  • Main cultivars: Frantoio, Canino, Leccino.

  • Recognized among the best in Italy.





🌱 Economy and Local Life



  • Primary sector still dominant:


    • Olive growing and wine production.

    • Cereal farming and livestock.


  • Local crafts:


    • The Oddo family, bakers since 1956, now third generation.






🌳 Landscape and Environment




🌊 The Tiber Valley



  • Breathtaking views with river terraces, gorges, and badlands.

  • Rural landscapes with farmhouses and castles.




🦉 Biodiversity



  • Untouched woods rich in flora and fauna.

  • Volcanic soils favor biodiversity.





🚉 Connections and Accessibility



  • Linked to Orte and Viterbo via SP151.

  • COTRAL bus services.

  • Former Bassano railway station (closed in 2012).

  • Distances:


    • 26 km from Viterbo.

    • 30 km from Lake Bolsena.

    • 100 km from Rome.






🌄 Nearby Attractions



  • Celleno (ghost village).

  • Civita di Bagnoregio (“the dying city”).

  • Castiglione in Teverina.

  • Bassano in Teverina (One of the “Most Beautiful Villages of Italy”).




🌿 Natural Attractions



  • Lake Alviano Oasis (7 km).

  • Monte Casoli Nature Reserve in Bomarzo (6 km).

  • Valley of the Calanchi.





🔮 Future Prospects



  • Heritage protection: municipal castle well managed and promoted.

  • Sustainable tourism: events and traditions keep the local identity alive.





✨ Conclusions



Graffignano is a village that bridges past and future.

Between castles, folk festivals, Tiber Valley landscapes, and authentic flavors like lombrichelli pasta and Tuscia PDO olive oil, the village proudly tells its millenary story.


For those seeking authentic Italy, far from mass tourism, Graffignano is a gateway to the Tuscia Teverina.

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