Tarquinia: The Etruscan Capital of Dreams, History, and Sea

Giano di Vico
Jun 22
3 min read

There is a place, in the heart of Tuscia, where the past doesn’t sleep beneath dust, but still pulses through the stones, the painted tombs, and the eternal wings of horses carved in tuff.Tarquinia is not just a town: it is a time machine, an atlas of Etruscan civilization, and a terrace suspended between archaeology, art, and the sea.

The Buried Culture That Spoke to the Gods

According to legend, Tarquinia—ancient Tarchna—was founded by Tarconte, the mythical son of the god Tages. For centuries, it was the beating heart of the Etruscan Dodecapolis. Between the 8th and 4th centuries BC, a refined and powerful civilization flourished here—capable of dialogue with the Greeks, influencing Rome, creating sacred art, and leaving an indelible mark on a world that, even today, too often forgets that its roots go far deeper than the she-wolf and the Capitoline Hill.

The Etruscans left no books, but they gave us an open-air encyclopedia: the Monterozzi Necropolis, the largest and most frescoed in the Mediterranean. A subterranean museum of life, where painted tombs recount banquets, dances, journeys to the afterlife, and fantastic animals with chromatic vitality that transcends 2,500 years of silence. A pictorial miracle that stares us in the eye and reminds us how deeply we are children of mystery.

The National Etruscan Museum: The Horses That Still Fly

In the heart of the Renaissance city, inside the magnificent Vitelleschi Palace, lies one of the most extraordinary archaeological museums in Italy: the National Etruscan Museum of Tarquinia. Its rooms are a symphony of artifacts—stone sarcophagi bearing the faces of the deceased, jewelry revealing forgotten fashions, frescoes rescued from death, and above all, the Winged Horses.These two high-relief steeds, magnificently suspended in an eternal gallop, have become the symbol of the city and the Etruscan identity.

There’s also a gem for the curious: the sculpture of the Tauroctonous Mithras, uniting pagan worlds in a syncretic sacrificial dance with Persian origins.

A Historic Center that Smells of Stone and Sea

Tarquinia isn’t only Etruscan—it’s also a vibrant, scenic medieval village. Its Romanesque churches, like Santa Maria in Castello, rise with sober elegance among cobbled alleys, while the Cathedral of Santa Margherita, adorned with frescoes, reflects the city’s Renaissance spirituality.

Strolling among noble palaces, ancient fountains, and panoramic viewpoints like Belvedere della Ripa feels like leafing through an illustrated history book scented with sea breeze and wild lavender.

Archaeology and Sea: A Perfect Match

Just a few kilometers downhill leads you to the Lido of Tarquinia, where dark sands and calm waters welcome those seeking relaxation after diving into the past. The sea here is gentle—perfect for families, and for those who love sailing, fishing, or simply watching a sunset over the Tyrrhenian Sea.

And after your swim, there's always a plate of fresh seafood waiting, served in a seaside trattoria, perhaps with a glass of Vermentino or Alea Viva, a red wine born of the Etruscan Maremma.