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🚶‍♂️ The Via Francigena between Vetralla and Viterbo: A Journey through the Centuries

  • Writer: Giano di Vico
    Giano di Vico
  • Jun 14
  • 2 min read


Step by step, across landscapes shaped by faith, stone, and silence

The Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage route that connected Canterbury to Rome, passes through some of the most beautiful and untouched stretches of Tuscia.One of the most evocative segments is the path from Vetralla to Viterbo: a 15-km walk through woods, basalt roads, Etruscan echoes, and medieval memories.

🗺️ Route Overview

  • Distance: approx. 15 km

  • Estimated time: 4–5 hours (leisurely pace)

  • Difficulty: Easy to moderate

  • Starting point: Vetralla – Piazza Umberto I

  • Arrival: Viterbo – Porta San Pietro (historical pilgrim entrance)

  • Marked: Yes (white and red VF markers + stylized pilgrim shell)

🌳 1. Leaving Vetralla: Olive Groves and Basalt RoadsThe route begins in Vetralla, a hilltop town with deep Etruscan roots and strong pilgrim traditions.You immediately descend into a landscape of olive trees, dry-stone walls, and ancient paving stones — remnants of the original basolato romano.

📸 Don’t miss:

  • The Church of San Francesco (pilgrim blessing site)

  • Views of Monte Fogliano

  • Old shepherd huts and terraced vineyards

🌲 2. The Forest of Macchia di Piantata: Between Shadow and SilenceMidway, the path enters a dense chestnut and oak forest, known as the Macchia di Piantata.Here, the silence deepens, broken only by birdsong and your footsteps — it’s one of the most meditative stretches of the entire Via Francigena.

🧘 Perfect for:

  • Mindful walking

  • Nature photography

  • Reflective stops beneath the canopy

🏛️ 3. Arriving in Viterbo: The Pilgrim’s CityAfter passing under Roman aqueducts and crossing quiet countryside, you arrive in Viterbo, once known as the City of the Popes.Pilgrims traditionally entered through Porta San Pietro, and many still do today.

📍 Must-sees for pilgrims:

  • The Pilgrim’s Fountain

  • The Quartiere San Pellegrino, with its medieval architecture

  • The Cathedral of San Lorenzo, where spiritual and civic history meet

🥖 Pilgrim Tips (Viterbolandia Approved)

  • Bring water and snacks: there are a few fountains, but services are sparse between the towns

  • Wear sturdy shoes: some stretches are uneven with roots and stones

  • Stop at a local bakery in Viterbo for pizza bianca or tozzetti as a post-trek reward

Why Walk the Francigena between Vetralla and Viterbo?

  • Because it’s a walk through history, not just scenery

  • Because it offers the perfect balance of nature, silence, and story

  • Because it reminds you that every step can have meaning

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