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“Guide to Living, Discovering, and Loving the Land of the Popes”

  • Writer: Giano di Vico
    Giano di Vico
  • Jul 23
  • 7 min read


From historic mansions to the most authentic taverns, from Templar mysteries to cycling trails: everything you need to know to experience Tuscia like a true insider.

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🏰 SLEEPING AMONG THE STONES OF HISTORY

When Castles Become Home

The Tuscia region of Viterbo is home to 48 officially recognized historic residences, an architectural treasure now enjoying a second youth. Many of these residences have been transformed into high-end accommodations, where sleeping literally means living history.

Castello di Proceno represents the most fascinating evolution: a scattered hotel where hospitality is spread throughout the entire medieval village along the Via Francigena. Here, you're not sleeping in a hotel, but becoming a temporary resident of an authentically flavored town.

Villa La Trinità in Caprarola offers a different but equally magical experience: 200,000 square meters of private parkland with centuries-old oaks, where guests wake up to the scents of a 19th-century garden and dine under stars that have witnessed centuries of history.

Residenza Antica Flaminia in Civita Castellana, certified with the Gold Crown by the Residenze d'Epoca, is the perfect example of how an ancient castle can become a contemporary luxury retreat without losing its medieval soul.

🍷 THE GASTRONOMIC UNIVERSE OF VITERBO

47 Places to Eat Like a True Local

Viterbo is not just history: it is a gastronomic universe that has preserved authenticity while evolving toward excellence. We have cataloged 47 restaurants, trattorias, and taverns that represent the culinary soul of the city.

Historic Legends

Osteria Tre Re (1622) holds an absolute record: the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Europe, with only 36 seats and "remarkably modest prices for the quality" (according to the Italian Academy of Cuisine). Federico Fellini once hung his hat here, still preserved at the entrance.

Osteria del Vecchio Orologio (1966) has over 50 years of Viterbo tradition. Built entirely of local peperino stone, it uses over 20 suppliers of Tuscia delicacies, and its wine list features only labels from the Tuscia Viterbese.

Contemporary Excellence

Danilo Ciavattini brings his Michelin star to Viterbo with a cuisine that tells "the story of the countryside and rural life" through ingredients like IGP Viterbo potatoes and local lamb.

Casa Iozzìa in Vitorchiano is a miracle of Sicily transplanted into Tuscia: five tables where Lorenzo Iozzia recreates emotional flashbacks that have earned him a place in the Michelin guide.

Authentic Flavors

In the medieval district of San Pellegrino, L'Archetto offers the most evocative experience: in warm seasons, you dine under a medieval arch between ancient frescoes, with specialties like wild boar ragù strozzapreti and Viterbese acquacotta.

Il Richiastro, since 1981 in the historic Palazzo Mazzatosta, offers creative interpretations of medieval Viterbese cuisine, with a wine list focused on Triple A natural wine producers.

🌙 MYSTERIES AND LEGENDS: ESOTERIC TUSCIA

Between Noble Ghosts and Templar Knights

Tuscia is not only stone and flavors: it’s a land where history and legend intertwine in tales that have shaped collective imagination for centuries.

The Ghost of the Pimpaccia

Donna Olimpia Pamphilj, the "Pimpaccia" born in Viterbo in 1592, continues to appear every January 7. Her ghost rides through the Roman night in a flaming black carriage, but her Viterbo roots bind her forever to Tuscia, where she died in exile in 1657.

The Underground Templars

Beneath Viterbo lies a world that preserves traces of the Knights Templar. The Museum of the Templar Knights in Underground Viterbo documents how the city holds a "Templar primacy" in Europe, thanks to Pope Eugene III who launched the Second Crusade from Viterbo in 1145.

The underground tunnels once connected the city’s sacred structures and likely hosted clandestine Templar ceremonies even after their official dissolution.

The Talking Houses of San Pellegrino

In the most extensive and best-preserved medieval quarter in Europe, some carved stones are said to whisper secrets to initiates. The bifore windows, sculpted coats of arms, and antique knockers hold hidden messages used for centuries by various confraternities.

👑 GREAT FAMILIES: POWER AND SYMBOLISM

Farnese, Orsini, and the Lords of Tuscia

Tuscia was shaped by great noble dynasties who left not only castles and palaces but a complex system of esoteric symbols and encrypted messages.

The Farnese: Geometries of Power

Villa Farnese in Caprarola is not just architecture: it’s a treatise on hermetic symbolism. The Hall of Angels and the Studiolo hide alchemical messages, while the Labors of Hercules cycle represents the ideal of the enlightened prince.

The Bisentina Island on Lake Bolsena became the Farnese family mausoleum and spiritual shrine, while Giulia "la Bella" Farnese still lives in the legends of Vasanello Castle.

The Orsini: Alchemy and Ghosts

Vicino Orsini created the Sacred Wood in Bomarzo, a garden of hermetic symbols that still holds unresolved mysteries. Orsini Palace and the mysterious Pyramid of Bomarzo complete a unique system of initiatory signals in Europe.

The Castle of Soriano nel Cimino is still a place of ghost sightings and legends, while Villa Papacqua preserves alchemical fountains and memories of humanist encounters.

🚴 CYCLING THROUGH HISTORY

500 Km of Trails Between Lakes and Medieval Villages

Tuscia offers over 500 km of mapped bike paths, from volcanic lakes to medieval towns, from Etruscan sites to natural spas.

The Great Lake Loops

The Lake Bolsena Loop (53-56 km) is the most scenic: a mix of asphalt and dirt (60% off-road) passing through Bolsena, Marta, Capodimonte, and Montefiascone. Clockwise direction is recommended to avoid steep climbs.

Lake Vico offers a smaller loop (18-20 km), entirely paved in the Nature Reserve, ideal for families and casual cyclists.

Via Francigena on Two Wheels

The gravel version of the Via Francigena features thrilling stages: the Bolsena-Viterbo-Sutri section (75 km, +1090m) crosses ancient Roman paving of the Via Cassia, passes Bagnaccio thermal baths, and connects historic villages.

Technical Mountain Biking

For advanced bikers, Monte Fogliano and Lake Vico (29 km, +896m) offer technical single tracks through beech forests, while CAI Trail 103 in the Cimini Mountains (25 km, +800m) is for expert MTB riders only.

🎭 LIVING VITERBO LIKE A LOCAL

The Authentic City Beyond Tourism

Viterbo truly comes alive when you embrace its slow rhythm. Historic cafés like Grandori under the stone arches of Piazza della Rocca, aimless strolls through San Pellegrino where "only the sound of shoes accompanies those who hear the whispers of ancient stones."

Markets and Daily Life

The market at Piazza della Vittoria represents living tradition: here, you can still buy Gradoli's Purgatory beans, fresh oil from the Cimini mills, and hand-picked Soriano chestnuts.

Everyday Spas

Free and historic spas are part of daily life in Viterbo. Drinking from fountains is an ancient ritual renewed daily, while the Terme dei Papi offer luxurious 60-degree thermal waters from the volcanic earth.

The Macchina of Santa Rosa

On September 3rd, the city transforms for the Macchina di Santa Rosa procession: a 30-meter tall, 5-ton structure carried on the shoulders of 100 men. A UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2013, it is Viterbo’s beating heart, surrounded by stories of miracles and supernatural protection.

🌿 NATURE AND ADVENTURE

From the Cimini Mountains to the Tyrrhenian Coast

Tuscia is not just culture: it is a land of nature stretching from beech and chestnut forests to pristine beaches.

The Cimini Mountains

The Cimini Park offers trails through centuries-old beechwoods, fairytale-like chestnut groves, and vistas reaching the sea. The Sasseto Forest in Torre Alfina is considered one of the most beautiful in Italy.

The Coastline

Montalto di Castro and Tarquinia boast kilometers of beaches with coastal bike paths and flat seaside routes.

Hidden Waterfalls

Monte Gelato Waterfalls are a natural spectacle near Sutri, while Viterbo's thermal springs offer open-air baths even in winter.

🍇 THE FLAVORS OF THE TERRITORY

From Native Grapes to Village Festivals

Tuscia is a land of authentic flavors that narrate centuries of rural traditions.

Tuscia Wines

Native grapes like Aleatico, Grechetto, and yellow Trebbiano produce wines that speak of volcanic terroir. Wineries from Vignanello to Gradoli offer tastings among vineyards overlooking the lakes.

Unmissable Festivals

The Chestnut Festival of Soriano nel Cimino (October) transforms the medieval village into a month-long celebration. The Hazelnut Festival of Caprarola honors the local IGP product, while the Wild Boar Festival of Canepina serves up game from the Cimini forests.

Slow Food Presidia

Purgatory Beans from Gradoli, Gray Rabbit from Lazio, and Cimini Hills Olive Oil represent recognized excellence found only here.

🏛️ EVENTS AND FESTIVALS 2025

A Calendar That Never Stops

May Tuscia Bike Ride (May 4): Starting from Viterbo through Vitorchiano and Bomarzo

Summer Witch Festival in the Bagnaia countryside Concerts in Historic Homes: Villa Lante, Palazzo Farnese White Nights in medieval towns

September Macchina di Santa Rosa procession (September 3) Etruscan Randonnée: MTB and gravel routes through art and nature

Autumn Chestnut Festival in Soriano nel Cimino (all October) Harvesting in historic wineries

📍 PRACTICAL INFORMATION

How to Get Around Tuscia

By Car Highway A1: exits Orte, Attigliano, Magliano Sabina Orte-Civitavecchia expressway to the coast

By Train Rome-Viterbo railway (Porta Fiorentina station) Orte-Civitavecchia connection to the coast

By Bike 500+ km of mapped routes Rental available: Passione e Pedali (Viterbo, Via Saffi 76) Specialized guided tours

Airports Rome Fiumicino: 90-120 km Rome Ciampino: 80-100 km

Best Periods Spring-Summer: gardens, outdoor activities, spas Autumn: landscape colors, chestnuts, harvest Winter: cozy historic interiors, warm spas

Useful Contacts Emergencies: 112 Tourist Info Viterbo: +39 0761 325992 Tusciabikeride: tusciabikeride25@gmail.comCertified Tour Guides: +39 327 3984629

🎯 THE CHANGING TUSCIA

New Openings and Projects 2025

Il Babbà 081 (Via della Palazzina 65): Master Pizzaiolo Giuseppe Cravero brings top-tier Neapolitan tradition to Viterbo.

N'uovo vino e cucina (Sutri): Entered the Michelin Guide 2025 just a year and a half after opening, with Chef Simone Lezzerini.

Gur.me (Via Valle Piatta 5): Stefania Mancini’s new venue blending land and sea, including Italian-style sushi with Chianina carpaccio.

💝 WHY TUSCIA IS UNIQUE

Tuscia isn’t a destination: it’s a complete experience. It's the only place on earth where you can:

  • Sleep in a 13th-century castle

  • Dine in the oldest restaurant in Europe

  • Cycle along a 2000-year-old Via Francigena route

  • Discover Templar mysteries in underground tunnels

  • Relax in open-air volcanic hot springs

  • Witness living UNESCO traditions



Tuscia is a land of harmonious contrasts: ancient and modern, aristocratic and rustic, mystical and grounded. It’s the perfect place for those seeking authenticity without sacrificing comfort, history without forgetting pleasure, adventure with culture.



Viterbolandia will guide you on this complete discovery, where every stone tells a story, every dish hides a tradition, every path leads to a surprise.

Tuscia awaits. Not as a tourist, but as a partner in a beauty that has lasted a thousand years and renews itself every day.

Welcome to your next love story.

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