Hazelnuts, honey, and dessert wine — the flavors of Tuscia that make every celebration feel like home Some desserts are more than just a sweet ending to a meal — they tell stories , celebrate the passing of time, and preserve family rituals.In Tuscia, two local specialties capture the soul of festive gatherings: the Pangiallo , a rich holiday cake, and Tozzetti , crisp hazelnut cookies perfect all year round. 🎄 Pangiallo: the golden winter cake of fruit, honey, and memory Pangiallo  (literally “yellow bread”) is a traditional Viterbese holiday cake made with dried fruits, honey, dark chocolate, candied peel, and warm spices .Moist inside, with a golden crust, this ancient sweet was once prepared to welcome the returning light  during the darkest days of the year. In the past, families would bake large batches and gift them to neighbors — a sign of prosperity and goodwill . Today, Pangiallo is still the centerpiece of Christmas tables  across Tuscia, best enjoyed with a small glass of dessert wine or a rich espresso. 🌰 Tozzetti: hazelnut cookies for dipping and sharing Viterbo’s Tozzetti  are rustic cousins of Tuscany’s cantucci, but with a distinct identity: less sweet, crunchier , and filled with whole hazelnuts from the Cimini Hills .Their flavor shifts slightly from village to village, but the essence remains: flour, eggs, sugar, olive oil, and perfectly toasted nuts . Locals enjoy them with Aleatico di Gradoli , a ruby red dessert wine — aromatic, smooth, and the perfect companion to these sturdy little bites. 🛒 Where to find them 📍 Pangiallo Sold during the Christmas season  in nearly all bakeries and pastry shops in Viterbo and surrounding towns Also made by local cultural associations and pro loco  groups during holiday events 📍 Tozzetti Available all year long For a truly handmade version:→ Visit La Bottega di Nicolai  in Chia  (Soriano nel Cimino), known for traditional sweets crafted with care 📦 Festive markets and gift boxes Both treats often appear in holiday hampers  or decorative bags  at seasonal markets and food fairs 🧡 More than desserts — edible memories Pangiallo and Tozzetti aren’t just typical sweets.They are edible memories , centuries-old gestures, and comforting flavors that speak of belonging, celebration, and simplicity .If you’re visiting Tuscia during the holidays, don’t miss them.And if you live here — you already know: these are flavors you never really say goodbye to .

Offal, memory, and wild fennel in a flavor that doesn’t ask for forgiveness Not all cured meats are meant to please everyone.Some exist to tell a harsher, more rural story , born of survival, creativity, and ancient wisdom.The Susianella , a traditional sausage from Viterbo with medieval roots, is one of the boldest examples.Obscure to most, fiercely loved  by those who try it, today it is recognized as a Slow Food Presidia , safeguarding an identity on the edge of disappearance. 🥩 What is Susianella? Susianella is a cured sausage made with pork offal  (heart, liver, spleen, and other "less noble" parts), blended with meat, salt, pepper, wild fennel , and a touch of chili pepper .It ’s stuffed in natural casing and left to dry slowly , in ventilated but protected spaces. The result is a salume with a strong, intense aroma , aromatic, slightly spicy, and with a distinct mineral aftertaste , evoking blood and earth. It’s a divisive product , but full of character.For those who seek authenticity, it's a revelation. 🧄 A tradition rooted in time Already mentioned in documents from the 15th century, Susianella was once the butcher’s salume , made with what couldn’t be sold  and eaten in-house with bread, red wine, and ancestral knowledge. It represents a cuisine of necessity , but also of intelligence—turning every part of the animal into nourishment. Today, as chefs and food lovers rediscover non-industrial, local identity products, Susianella has begun a new life, gaining a niche among gourmets and traditionalists alike . 🛒 Where to find it Because it’s a limited production , you won’t find Susianella in supermarkets .You ’ll need a bit of curiosity and a taste for the authentic. 📍 In and around Viterbo : Look for artisan butchers and charcuterie shops  that process local meat and handle their own curing A reliable source is the Zootecnica Viterbese  cooperative (Via Mantova), which supports and promotes local quality meat products, including rare specialties 📦 At food events and festivals : During farmers’ markets, Slow Food fairs, and traditional Tuscia festivals , you may find Susianella available for tasting or for direct sale from small producers 🍷 How to enjoy it Raw , sliced thin, with a bold local red wine (like Cesanese, dry Aleatico, or a good Vignanello DOC) Grilled , served with rustic bread and sautéed wild greens Or as a flavorful base in soups and traditional sauces , lending depth and richness 🕯️ A taste you’ll never forget Susianella doesn’t try to be universally liked.It ’s a flavor that stings, seduces, divides, and conquers .It ’s a story to be tasted , a memory preserved in salt , released with every slice. Those who taste it, don’t forget it.Those who seek it, rediscover a true piece of authentic Tuscia .

Ancient flavors, farming traditions, and devotional feasts from the hills of northern Lazio Some ingredients carry more than taste—they carry history , memory , and identity .Among the most cherished treasures of the Tuscia region are the humble yet noble Onano Lentils  and the delicate Purgatorio Beans of Gradoli .These aren’t just legumes: they are living traces of tradition , grown with care and pride, generation after generation. 🌱 Onano Lentils: tiny, papal, and flavorful Onano Lentils are among the most prized in Italy.Tiny, thin-skinned, and rich in flavor, they require no soaking and cook quickly—ideal for modern kitchens, yet deeply rooted in the past.They’ve been cultivated since the Middle Ages on the volcanic soils between Onano and Acquapendente , and local lore claims they were once served at papal banquets  during the Renaissance. Their firm texture makes them perfect for rustic soups, warm salads, or simply dressed with Tuscia extra virgin olive oil and a bay leaf . 🍲 Purgatorio Beans: soft, white, and steeped in meaning The Purgatorio Beans of Gradoli  are tiny, white, and incredibly tender.They take their name from an ancient tradition: the "Purgatorio Lunch" , held every Ash Wednesday , when the entire community gathers for a simple yet meaningful meal.In this context, the beans represent humility, remembrance, and spiritual renewal . With their ultra-thin skin and buttery texture, they’re ideal for delicate side dishes, velvety purées, and refined vegetarian recipes. 🛒 Where to find them: authentic and local To experience these heirloom legumes at their best, authenticity is key . Here’s where to find them: 📍 In Onano and Gradoli : Visit local farms  and agricultural cooperatives Look for the protection consortia (consorzi di tutela)  that guarantee traceability and quality 📍 In Viterbo : Stop by “Viterbo Mia” , a trusted shop on Via San Lorenzo , known for carrying certified local specialties Explore traditional food shops and delicatessens throughout the historic center 📦 Online : Many farms now offer direct shipping , including gift boxes and seasonal selections of legumes and cereals 🧡 Why choose them? Choosing Onano Lentils or Purgatorio Beans means supporting sustainable agriculture , rooted in the landscape and respectful of tradition.It means nourishing yourself with genuine flavors  tied to centuries of farming wisdom. And each time you bring them to the table, you’re not just cooking—you’re telling the story of Tuscia .

Symbols carved in stone, lost loves, and forgotten pyramids Vicino Orsini didn’t build a garden.He carved a cry of the soul into rock —monsters, sphinxes, dragons, masks, obelisks, and cryptic inscriptions scattered among untamed greenery.Nothing is symmetrical. Nothing is reassuring. The Sacred Grove of Bomarzo  is the opposite of a Renaissance garden. It’s a descent into the subconscious. A shadow theater. 🐉 The Sacred Grove: a hermetic garden of love and death According to the official story, the garden was created by Pier Francesco Orsini , known as Vicino , in the 16th century after the death of his wife, Giulia Farnese .But for those who understand the language of symbols, the grotesques don’t merely speak of grief. They form an initiatory path . The sculptures are alchemical archetypes —the dragon, the struggling giants, the open-mouthed ogre’s face—each a trial of the soul, a shape of collective myth .Then come the inscriptions: cryptic phrases, hermetic aphorisms. Some seem to speak to the visitor. Others whisper to the unseen. Nothing is random. The garden is a spiritual labyrinth , built to disorient, to tear down illusions—and perhaps lead toward revelation. 🏛️ Palazzo Orsini: allegories and echoes Not far from the grove stands the solemn Palazzo Orsini , seemingly in contrast with the sculptural madness outside.But here too, symbols abound : in ceilings, chambers, and frescoes.The palace reads like a second act: where the garden leads through chaos, the palace restores silence and symmetry —as though Vicino wished to show that balance is earned only after a descent. Legends speak of nightly apparitions , footsteps in the halls, whispers. Some say Giulia’s spirit  wanders the corridors. Others believe Vicino himself never truly left  his hidden world. 🔺 The Pyramid of Bomarzo: ancient monument or ritual altar? Few know of it. Fewer still have seen it.Hidden in a secluded clearing near the garden lies a carved tufa pyramid , with stair-like steps, channels, and cryptic markings. Some scholars call it an Etruscan-Roman altar , perhaps for funerary rites.Others believe it is an alchemical pyramid , used for mystical rituals tied to death and rebirth.It is astronomically aligned  and bears signs linked to Renaissance esotericism . Did Vicino know of it? Was he inspired by it—or was he its secret guardian? 🕯️ A garden that stares back In the Sacred Grove, you do not look at the statues . They look at you . They measure you. They challenge or welcome you.To the tourist’s eye, it’s a strange park.To the seeker, it’s a threshold . Who enters with awareness does not leave unchanged . ✨ Orsini: the heretical gentleman Vicino Orsini was neither architect nor orthodox mystic.He was a poet, a soldier, an initiate .His medium was stone. His message, perhaps, still waits to be understood. He did not create a place for pleasure.He shaped a world to cross , a ritual to fulfill , a wound to transform into vision .

Symbols, occult geometries, and hidden messages in the halls of Villa Farnese Villa Farnese  in Caprarola  is not merely a masterpiece of Italian Renaissance architecture. It is a stone-bound manuscript , written in code.A place where nothing is merely decorative , and where every fresco, every stairway, every architectural line speaks a hidden language—a language woven from Christian mysticism , alchemical wisdom , and a cosmic vision of power . What truly lies concealed within the frescoed walls of the villa?What message did Duke Alessandro Farnese  seek to transmit through the symbols embedded in his studiolo, spiral staircase, and zodiacal halls?This is the esoteric secret of Caprarola . 🛕 A pentagonal plan: sacred or cabalistic architecture? The villa was built atop a pentagonal base , the remnant of the original fortress of Caprarola designed by Sangallo the Younger .But the transformation carried out by Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola  far exceeded defensive needs: the pentagon was seen as the symbol of man  and natural perfection .For Renaissance hermeticists, it embodied the divine harmony of the elements —earth, air, fire, water—and the fifth essence: aether . At the heart of the villa lies the famous helical staircase , a spiraling ascent echoing the motion of celestial spheres —an initiatory path from earthly ignorance to higher knowledge. 🧭 The Duke’s Studiolo: a laboratory of the soul Alessandro Farnese’s Studiolo  is a small, secluded room—and the symbolic epicenter of the entire villa.Its walls are adorned with scientific instruments, celestial maps, prophetic figures , and mythical archetypes .It is a space where science and spirituality converge , embodying the Renaissance ideal of the homo universalis . Constellations, atlases, armillary spheres—all arranged to guide the Duke’s gaze on a path of inner transformation.To many, this was an alchemical meditation chamber , where the lead of ignorance could be transmuted into the gold of wisdom. 👼 The Angels’ Antechamber: guardians of the threshold Steps away lies one of the villa’s most enigmatic rooms: the Antechamber of the Angels .Here , frescoes of serene, ambiguous angels are arranged with astrological precision , generating a charged visual geometry .Some believe these beings are not Christian symbols, but representations of intelligent cosmic forces —gatekeepers between realms. The walls are inscribed with arcane signs, astrological glyphs , and hidden letters. To the initiated, this is a map of the soul .It marks the threshold between the mundane and the sacred. 🌌 The Hall of the World Map: cosmic dominion made visible At the center of the noble floor lies the monumental Hall of the World Map , featuring a vast fresco of the globe surrounded by mythological and symbolic figures.It is not just a celebration of Farnese power. It is a manifestation of cosmic ambition —a declaration that the Farnese rule extended over land and sky alike.Each mythological image encodes a spiritual law. Each continent, a plane of the soul. 🔮 Hermeticism, astrology, theology: an initiatory synthesis Villa Farnese is a temple of universal knowledge , constructed in alignment with Renaissance hermetic ideals.Its design, decor, and spatial logic reflect influences from: Christian Kabbalah Neoplatonic astrology Elemental correspondence and balance Spiritual alchemy Each room is a threshold , each corridor a degree of initiation , each ceiling a cosmic text  waiting to be read. 🕯️ What remains of that secret today? The esoteric secret of Caprarola  still lingers— visible yet unseen .Millions walk its halls unaware that they are within a structured symbolic system , a grand hermetic diagram that speaks only to those willing to see beyond the surface . It invites you to slow down, to observe, to intuit.To enter not as a tourist, but as an initiate .To decipher not only its symbols—but yourself .

A chronicle of a foretold massacre — papal revenge, noble ambition, and a memory erased Once upon a time, there was a small capital. A powerful city, refined, rich in art and intrigue.Its name was Castro , and today, only a shadow remains—swallowed by the fields that stretch between Tuscia and the borderlands of modern-day Maremma. But Castro was more than a city. It was the beating heart of a dynastic dream: the Duchy of Castro , the Farnese stronghold, the symbol of their glory… and of their downfall. 🏰 A duchy born of ambition The Duchy of Castro was established in 1537  by Pope Paul III Farnese , the very pontiff who raised his nephews to dukes and cardinals with the ease of an emperor. Castro, once a fortified medieval village, was reborn as a Renaissance capital , envisioned by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger : elegant palaces, geometric streets, a modern cathedral. The vision was clear: to make Castro the "Parma of Lazio" , a model Farnese state, politically and culturally autonomous—yet firmly in the family’s grip. ⚖️ Popes and dukes: a fire smoldering beneath the ashes But the Papacy never forgets. After Paul III, his successors saw the semi-independent duchy nestled in papal lands with growing suspicion.Over time, tensions rose between the Farnese  and the Roman Curia —over unpaid taxes, questionable alliances, and mutual provocations. In 1639 , the Duke of Castro  was accused of involvement in the assassination of the city’s bishop. The fuse was lit. Pope Urban VIII (Barberini)  responded with fury, invading the duchy—but after long years of negotiation and foreign pressure, he was forced to withdraw. The revenge, however, was only postponed. 💣 The cursed year: 1649 In 1649 , under Pope Innocent X Pamphilj , everything collapsed.This time, there was no diplomacy. The Papal army marched on Castro , again accusing the Farnese of conspiring against the Church. On September 2nd, 1649 , Castro was wiped off the map . It wasn’t a battle—it was a systematic destruction , cold, methodical, deliberate. Palaces, churches, archives, towers: everything was razed. The very stones were hauled away. The city was not just physically  erased—it was historically  obliterated. Innocent X forbade its rebuilding: “Nothing shall ever be built here again,”  reads the Latin inscription still standing on the site. 🩸 A wound still open The destruction of Castro was not merely a military act—it was a symbolic and political purge without precedent .A papal vendetta dressed as justice, a warning to every noble family daring to defy Rome. The Duchy of Castro was formally dissolved .The Farnese never recovered. Their prestige was broken, their lands scattered, their vision of an independent state gone like dust in the wind. Today, Castro no longer exists .Only ruins, silence… and a few cypresses that still remember. 👁️ The ghost of Castro But stones remember.And those who wander the woods between Ischia di Castro  and the Fiora Valley  swear they still hear distant echoes:the clatter of hooves, the ghost of a church organ swept by wind, a scream that rustles through the olive groves. Modern archaeologists are slowly bringing back what once was hidden: the street plan, the cathedral’s remains, the broken walls, the ancient foundations.But the sorrow lingers— like an echo that refuses to fade . 🕯️ Why remember Castro today Because Castro still speaks to us :of power and fragility,of beauty and vengeance,of how memory can be buried… but never truly erased. And perhaps, to remember Castro is to heal an old injustice , to restore a voice to a city that once was—and that never deserved to vanish without a trace .

In the heart of Tuscia , where ancient forests murmur forgotten names and rolling hills preserve the breath of centuries, lies a world shaped by the Farnese.A world of visionary palaces , mystical islands , secret rooms , and legendary women . A realm of hidden geometries , speaking frescoes , and whispered curses.Enter the symbolic labyrinth of the Farnese family , where every door hides a riddle and every garden guards a secret. 🏛️ Villa Farnese at Caprarola: Architecture as Manifesto Built upon a pentagonal plan , Villa Farnese in Caprarola  is not just a Renaissance residence.It is a mental map , a political and spiritual manifesto carved in stone.Originally conceived as a fortress by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger , and later transformed into a regal villa by Vignola , it is a place where mathematics meets mysticism. Climbing the famous spiral staircase, one enters a world of order, power, and cosmic vision— the Farnese vision . 👼 The Angels’ Antechamber and the Studiolo: Hermetic and Alchemical Symbolism Two small, secluded rooms conceal the most esoteric heart  of the villa. In the Angels’ Antechamber , religious iconography turns ambiguous: winged beings , aligned along zodiacal axes, seem more like guardians of arcane knowledge than messengers of faith. The Studiolo  of Duke Alessandro is a Renaissance wunderkammer  in fresco: celestial maps, alchemical symbols, mathematical tools, sibyls and prophets.Everything is intentional. This is not a study—it is a temple of contemplation and dominion , where power is married to secret wisdom. 🌒 The Legend of the Farnese Curse Too much power draws the gaze of fate.Whispers tell of an ancient curse laid upon the Farnese—perhaps linked to forbidden rites performed in the villa’s crypts, or a broken pact with the Church.Reality and myth blur: dead heirs , an extinct dynasty , and a duchy (Castro) erased from the map . Like in a Greek tragedy, their hubris —the pride of absolute ambition—called down divine retribution. 🕊️ Isola Bisentina: Family Mausoleum and Sacred Refuge Set like a jewel in the waters of Lake Bolsena , Isola Bisentina  was the Farnese's spiritual sanctuary.They transformed it into a sacred island , dotted with chapels, symbols, and silence.At its center stands the mysterious Tempietto of Saint Catherine , built atop Etruscan catacombs. Here, time disappears , and only the soul remains.Some say the island hides the true Farnese crypt , sealed forever beneath its sacred stones. 💋 Giulia “La Bella” Farnese: Love, Scandal, and Legacy And then there was Giulia Farnese —known as La Bella , mistress of Pope Alexander VI (Borgia) , woman of scandalous beauty and political brilliance.Her body and name helped lift her family to the heights of power. But Giulia was more than a pawn: she was cultured, devout, and dangerously clever . It is said her spirit still drifts through the villa’s chambers and over the tranquil waters of the lake, whispering stories to those who listen. ✨ Conclusion: An Eternal Legacy Through Villa Farnese, Isola Bisentina, and frescoed secrets, one truth emerges: The greatness of the Farnese was not just political—it was visionary. A vision made of symbolism , cosmic architecture , female voices , and noble shadows . Today, fragments remain—in the stones, in the gardens, in the silences that speak louder than words.For those who dare to wander, the Farnese Labyrinth can still be walked . You only need the courage to get lost.

Some families make history. The Farnese carved it into stone, painted it across palaces, and tucked it into the folds of mystery. In the ancient heart of Tuscia , between silent woods and tuff-built hill towns, unfolds the grand and shadowy tale of the Farnese dynasty . Not just any noble family, but a house that entwined its fate with popes, princes, and artists. And, as often happens with overly ambitious lineages, it left behind a shadow. Perhaps a curse. 📜 A meteoric rise from obscurity It all began quietly, in a fragmented and war-torn Italy. The Farnese were minor feudal lords, with modest holdings around Valentano , Ischia di Castro , and the wild Maremma of Lazio . But they had two qualities few others could match: political cunning  and ruthless ambition . In 1534, everything changed. Alessandro Farnese  became pope, taking the name Paul III . It marked the beginning of a true ecclesiastical dynasty. At a time when the Church wielded temporal power, becoming pope meant controlling armies, fiefdoms, wealth, and influence. From that moment, the Farnese knew no limits. Paul III made his nephews cardinals, granted them cities, affairs, and alliances. Wherever they went, monumental palaces  rose— theatres of power  masked as lavish residences. Art, especially architecture , became their political voice: the Farnese had arrived, and they meant to stay. 🏛️ Palaces as codes, frescoes as confessions The Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola , carved into the hills of Tuscia, is their ultimate signature. More than a building, it’s a ciphered manifesto of power . Helical staircases spiral skyward, grand halls frescoed with heroic exploits, divine bloodlines, and military victories. Everything speaks of grandeur—but also something more subtle: a hidden message. In every room, in every fresco, lies a symbolic code . Mythological figures, constellations, esoteric emblems. Some scholars describe it as proto-Masonic language . Others, more daring, suspect the presence of hermetic knowledge passed down through the centuries. And it’s not just Caprarola. In Rome , the opulent Palazzo Farnese , now the French Embassy, carries the same encoded weight. In Parma , the Farnese Theatre  seems to celebrate not just spectacle, but the control of imagination itself. 🌘 Long shadows: the legend of the curse But no power goes unpunished—at least, not in legend. It’s said that at the height of their glory, the Farnese crossed a line . Which line? No one knows. But from that point onward, signs began to appear. One by one, male heirs died young . Marriages yielded no children. Territories were lost. Their magnificence faded into quiet ruin . The Duchy of Parma and Piacenza , once the pride of the dynasty, vanished with the extinction of the male line in the 18th century. Rumors abounded: an ancient curse , cast by a sorceress from Upper Tuscia, wronged by a Farnese; or the revenge of a monk who died chained in the palace dungeons. Some even whisper of a pact with dark forces , sealed in Caprarola’s underground chambers to ensure the family’s rise. 🧩 Hidden symbols and eternal mysteries Even today, walking through the frescoed halls of Farnese palaces sends a chill down the spine. Some figures seem to watch you , others to whisper secrets  just beyond your grasp. Occultists and alternative historians obsess over every detail: a reversed constellation , a cherub with a demonic gaze , a repeated numeric sequence  in the stucco work. Those with eyes to see, they say, will find the key.But no one has—yet. 🕯️ A restless legacy Today, what remains of the Farnese are their palaces, their paintings, the ruins of boundless power . And a sense of something unresolved. As if something had been left unfinished. As if, somewhere among the stones and frescoes, a truth still waits to be revealed. Perhaps, one day, someone will decode it. Or perhaps not.Because some legends prefer to remain legends .

Between History, Hospitality, and Resistance: The Paradox of the City of Popes There is a city in the heart of the Tuscia region that seems made to be admired—yet it doesn’t always seem to want  to be. Viterbo , with its intact medieval quarters, natural thermal springs, deep spirituality, and gentle countryside, is a place of enchantment.But behind its serene stone façade… something resists. Like a lady from another era, Viterbo welcomes guests with a smile—but not too warmly, especially if they stay too long . A Story to Tell (But Discreetly, Please) Literary and historical texts portray Viterbo as a crossroads of pilgrims, popes, and scholars—once a capital of the Papal States, refuge of hermits, and stage for conclaves. And yet, in more recent decades, the city has struggled with the transition from secluded stronghold  to potential tourist destination . Its historic center—one of the best-preserved in Europe—remains largely empty, dotted with “for sale” signs and restaurants that open and close like shutters in winter.The Macchina di Santa Rosa  bursts with life every September 3rd , but for the rest of the year, the city slips back into its ancient rhythm, almost reluctant to be interrupted. Tourists? Yes, But in Moderation On one hand, there are entrepreneurs and hoteliers eager to invest;projects aiming to revive the city’s thermal heritage; cultural initiatives trying to bridge past and future. On the other hand, a portion of the local population views any attempt at “touristic enhancement”  with suspicion. Some fear the transformation of historic districts.Others see the influx of “outsiders” as a threat to the city’s peace and identity.And still others regard B&Bs as a form of real estate speculation  rather than opportunity. In local media interviews, one often hears the phrase: “Yes to tourism, but without losing our soul.” A poetic idea, perhaps—yet profoundly ambiguous. Politics and Half-Vision Plans Recent city administrations have alternated between ambitious plans and hesitation. From digitalizing tourist routes to the now-abandoned idea of a funicular  connecting the lower city to the historic center,from successful (yet episodic) cultural events to underdeveloped infrastructure, the feeling is one of a perpetual late departure . Meanwhile, other towns in Lazio— Civita di Bagnoregio  above all—have made a bolder narrative leap, even at the cost of becoming a bit... “postcard-perfect.” Viterbo Still Has a Choice Viterbo’s paradox is clear:it has everything it needs to become an international cultural and spa destination ,yet it seems more comfortable in the role of a city that could—if it wanted to . The real question today is not if  Viterbo will become a tourist city,but what kind of tourism  it will choose to embrace. The kind that consumes?Or the kind that takes the time to understand? The rush-and-go variety?Or the kind that builds meaningful connections? Perhaps the future lies in a gentle, conscious form of hospitality —based on quality and mutual respect. But to walk that path, the city must make a collective decision .And summon a touch of courage .

Viterbo doesn’t welcome you. Or at least, not right away . And anyone who says otherwise has clearly never tried to order a coffee in San Pellegrino  after 11:30 a.m. But that’s exactly the point. This city isn’t made for those seeking the automatic smile, the promotional hug, or the ever-polite "How may we assist you, sir?" Viterbo doesn’t chase you. And that’s why it stays with you. The real travelers split into two categories: Those who arrive, don’t understand it… and leave. And those who arrive, don’t understand it… and stay. They stay because they sense something deeper underneath.A hidden rhythm.A low music, like an organ playing softly in the distance.A patient kind of time  that doesn’t ask you to rush—but invites you to pause ... if you’re able to. Here, reserve isn’t rejection —it’s a filter. It’s as if the city wants to know who you are  before opening up. It doesn’t give you everything at once—because it’s not interested in impressing you. And precisely for that reason… you end up loving it. Do the people of Viterbo seem rough? Maybe.But they live by an unspoken code. When they welcome you— truly welcome you —they won’t say a word. They’ll show it quietly.Like someone who leaves their door open for you,without ever pointing it out. This blog is born from that silence: From the attempt to describe a beauty that takes its time  to reveal itself. To transform the so-called flaws  of a city into genuine experiences ,for those with eyes to see beyond the walls. Because let’s be honest: Postcard hospitality is overrated. The real kind?It takes time. And Viterbo has plenty of it .

Viterbo was not born in a day.It emerged slowly—like a story carved in stone—between ancient myths , thermal springs , and medieval wars .To truly understand it, one must start from its roots. 🗿 From the First Settlements to Etruscan Legends The first traces of human presence in the territory of Viterbo date back to the Neolithic and Copper Ages ,with evidence found in sites such as the Rinaldone tombs  and the area around Ferento . Later, during the Etruscan era , the area saw small-scale settlements.The Duomo hill , for example, hosted an Etruscan outpost , probably identifiable with Surina  or Surna ,connected to the Lucumony of Tarquinia . In the 15th century, Dominican friar Giovanni Nanni , known as Annio of Viterbo ,formulated imaginative theories about the city’s origins.He claimed Viterbo was founded by Corinthus , son of Japheth , son of Noah ,and that it was once an Etruscan tetrapolis  made up of Fanum, Arbanum, Vetulonia, and Longula . 🛡️ Castrum Viterbii : The Birth of the Fortified City The first historical records of Viterbo appear in the 8th century ,when it was referred to as Castrum Viterbii . In 773 , Lombard King Desiderius  fortified the site in preparation for an invasion of Rome.Later, in 852 , a papal document officially recognized Castrum Viterbii as part of the Patrimony of Saint Peter . 🏛️ Rise in the Middle Ages: From Free Commune to City of Popes During the 11th century , Viterbo developed into a free commune , with the first consuls elected in 1099 .In the 12th century , the city consolidated its power,destroying the nearby rival Ferento  in 1172  and expanding its territory. In 1192 , Pope Celestine III  elevated Viterbo to the status of a bishopric ,marking another step in its political and religious rise. By the 13th century , Viterbo had become one of the most important cities in central Italy ,hosting numerous popes  and becoming the site of five papal conclaves  between 1261 and 1281 . The most famous conclave, held between 1268 and 1271 ,led to the election of Pope Gregory X  and the formal creation of the modern conclave system  still used today. 🌿 A City with Deep Roots Viterbo is a city whose roots reach deep into a past rich with history and legend . From prehistoric and Etruscan origins , through the Roman age  and the Middle Ages ,Viterbo has preserved and embraced its heritage—offering visitors a fascinating journey through the centuries .

In the heart of Viterbo, within the austere walls of the Palazzo dei Papi , one of the most surprising and dramatic episodes in Church history took place.It was the year 1268 . After the death of Pope Clement IV , the cardinals gathered in the City of the Popes to elect his successor.No one imagined it would take 33 months  to do so. ⏳ When Faith Meets Deadlock Tensions were high: pro-French and pro-Imperial factions clashed, each determined to impose its own candidate.Meanwhile, Viterbo waited. And waited.And waited some more. Two winters and three springs passed. No white smoke. No decision.The city—then as now—was practical and proud: it hosted, it endured... but not forever. 🔒 The Day the People Locked the Door So, in 1270 , the exasperated citizens of Viterbo  made a bold move that would change Church history forever:they locked the cardinals  inside the Conclave Hall , sealing the doors. “ Cum clave ”—“with a key”: hence the word conclave , still in use today. But it didn’t stop there. The people reduced the cardinals’ food rations , and according to some accounts—half legend, half truth—they even removed the roof  of the hall, exposing them to the sun, the rain… and public shame. 👑 A Pope, At Last After nearly three years , the miracle happened.In 1271 , Pope Gregory X  was finally elected—a man of balance and vision. Aware of the absurdity that had unfolded, he established the formal rules of the conclave  with the constitution Ubi Periculum , setting time limits and strict conditions for future papal elections. 🕯️ A Legacy That Still Lives On Today, if you visit the Palazzo dei Papi , and step into the Conclave Hall ,you can still feel the suspended tension of those endless days .The cold stones seem to hold their breath. And from that bold act by the people of Viterbo was born a solemn institution —respected for centuries, wrapped in mystery, and followed to this day. 📌 Did You Know? The 1268–1271 conclave remains the longest in the history of the Church . Dante Alighieri  referenced the papal residence in Viterbo in his political writings. The word conclave  was literally born within the walls of Viterbo . 🛶 Travel Tip If you visit Viterbo, don’t miss the Conclave Hall .Feel the silence.Look up through the loggia—where perhaps once, there was no roof at all .And remember: right here , in a small town in the Tuscia, the world changed forever .

Starting from Viterbo , the "City of the Popes," with its medieval historic center and the famous Bullicame thermal springs , you can embark on a route that touches some of the most enchanting places in Tuscia . 🏰 Vitorchiano Just a few kilometers from Viterbo, Vitorchiano  is a village perched atop a cliff of peperino  stone, known for its medieval walls and narrow alleys.Nearby lies the Martelluzzo waterfall , reachable via a nature trail—perfect for trekking and hiking enthusiasts. 🌳 Mount Cimino and the Ancient Beech Forest Continuing on, you can climb Mount Cimino , the highest peak of the Cimini Mountains , home to the Ancient Beech Forest , recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site .This centuries-old woodland offers a peaceful setting for relaxing walks among majestic trees and shaded trails. 🏞️ Chia Waterfalls Park Descending toward the Parco delle Cascate di Chia , you’ll encounter waterfalls nestled in lush greenery.This location—beloved by filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini —is perfect for a rejuvenating break immersed in nature. 🏛️ Villa Lante in Bagnaia Finally, a visit to Villa Lante  in Bagnaia , with its Italian-style gardens and dramatic fountains, brings the itinerary to a close with a touch of Renaissance elegance. This route offers a complete experience of history, nature, and culture , ideal for those who want to explore the wonders of the Tuscia region on foot .

Viterbo is not a city to simply pass through. Viterbo is something you breathe.  Something you listen to.Something that slips under your skin — between a sun-warmed stone and a fountain that has been singing for centuries. To live Viterbo means to stop running and start looking.It means discovering the slow taste of time,sitting on a peperino  wall with no hurry,getting lost on purpose in the alleys of San Pellegrino ,being surprised by an old doorway that seems to whisper tales of love, war, and miracles. Here, daily life is a mosaic of ancient gestures and modern habits: the bitter morning coffee in Piazza della Morte ; the murmur of the market under the arches of Piazza delle Erbe ; the scent of wood burning in fireplaces during winter; the silent call of the natural hot springs —the real ones, with no tickets and no showcases. Living Viterbo  is not just about places.It ’s a state of mind . It means accepting the city as it is:with its uneven rhythm, its walls that protect and trap,its churches that suddenly appear between buildings like reminders of a past that has never truly passed. In this section of our diary,we’ll tell the countless ways you can dwell in Viterbo—and in its soul: the villages that feel suspended in time, the secret rituals and most genuine habits, the chance encounters that change your day. We won’t just tell you where to go  —we’ll take you into the city .Into its silences, its wrinkles, its pride. Because Viterbo isn’t a place you visit . Viterbo is a place you live.

Just beyond the city walls of Viterbo,there is a place where the earth breathes .A warm, sulfurous breath— as ancient as time itself . Welcome to the Bullicame :not a spa resort, not a designer pool,but a living heart  that has pulsed beneath the Tuscia for centuries. 🏺 A Bit of History: The Bullicame of Popes and Pilgrims The waters of the Bullicame were known as far back as Roman times . Tacitus  and Pliny the Elder  praised their healing properties—soothing wounds, arthritis, and rheumatic pain. But it was during the Middle Ages  that the Bullicame became legendary. The popes  who resided in Viterbo used it as a source of health and restoration . Pilgrims, knights, merchants, and soldiers  stopped here along the Via Francigena ,bathing before continuing their journey. Even Dante Alighieri , in the Divine Comedy , refers to it—comparing the fiery infernal heat to that which gushes "from the Bulicame". 🌋 A Living Natural Wonder The Bullicame is not a simple "pool".It is a sleeping volcano  that whispers . From the central crater , enclosed by a safety gate,over 150 liters of thermal water per second  gush out,at a temperature of about 58°C  (136°F). The water flows along a natural canal, cooling as it travels,eventually forming smaller pools  where locals have bathed freely for generations. No schedules.No tickets.No formalities. Just water, sky, and stone . 🔥 Little-Known Curiosities The name “Bullicame”  comes from the Latin bullire  — "to boil":the ground truly seems to bubble , thanks to underground geothermal activity. Historically, the natural pools were used as "purification baths"  for travelers before entering the city. Medieval records mention miraculous healings  in the waters of the Bullicame, attributing healing powers  to its vapors. Over the centuries, many thermal spas and facilities have sprung up around the main spring—but the Bullicame remains the primordial heart  of Viterbo’s thermal soul. ✨ Why Should You Visit Today? Because bathing in the Bullicame is not just a dip .It ’s stepping into a legend .It ’s feeling the memory of the ancients  on your skin.It ’s rediscovering, among vapors and silence, a slower rhythm —where nature still sets the pace of life. And let’s be honest—it’s not every day you get to swim in a liquid poem  written by time itself.